ancouver lost a popular late night spot in 2005 when a wrecking ball mowed down the Crime Lab in order to make room for the ever-encroaching condos. Housed in what was originally a police crime lab, that tiny gem was one of Vancouver’s hidden secrets. Now ex-pats of the dining spot will be pleased to know that all is not lost. Former employee, Kim Cole, has resurrected the Lab. This time it’s a little bigger and a lot easier to find.

The new Crime Lab is located at 100-550 Denman Street. It’s right on the waterfront in the location that once housed Bravo Bistro and, briefly, Bliss Asian Bistro. Despite the fact that the room has one of the best views in the city, and is smack in the middle of a huge condo development, the space is going through growing pains. Trying to find a comfortable rhythm, Cole’s tinkering with the reasonably priced menu, funky martini list and friendly wait staff.

While the space is ideal for summer weather with its patio seating and oceanfront views, fall is here and we’re seeing darker days. Vancouverites will now have to embrace the rain, and while visiting the Crime Lab we'll have to cozy up and watch the waterworks from inside the glass-walled room. At least the attractive lighting helps brighten the space on dreary days.

The menu here isn’t overly ambitious. Chef Shahab Ghaemi-Zadeh isn’t into foams, sous vide techniques or foie gras. It’s basically neighbourhood eatery fare that the neighbours can actually afford to eat more than once a week. Soups and salads are called Parking Tickets, starters equal Misdemeanors, tasting plates are Joint Indictments and mains are entitled Capital Crimes: fun food for fun times.

Try the salmon flecked Dungeness crab cakes with aioli, lamb lollipops, or, if you're feeling slightly guilty, split some clams in coconut milk. Perhaps move onto a Capital Crime if you’re up for it. The prime rib burger is tasty, as is the portabello and goat cheese ravioli. A frisée salad with chorizo and squid could use some adjustments, but otherwise I’d happily return to the scene of the crime.