ust when you think that the eating/drinking scene in Vancouver has reached its loftiest peak, another contender comes along to challenge everything you thought you knew about quality hipsterdome; welcome, my friends, to Coast.

Emad Yacoub and Shannon Bosa-Yacoub (Glowbal, Afterglow) have out-done themselves with a hip and unfussy Yaletown space. Designed by David Nicolay (designer of Crush and owner of Tangerine), Coast is surprisingly sexy and sophisticated for a bright and open environment. Filled with scores of locals and business bigwigs, this isn’t exactly a first date place; Coast has more of a come-out-let’s-celebrate mandate, an eat-well-and-laugh-extremely-loud kind-of-place. Energy and great smells abound.

At the centre of the room is a communal table with its own dedicated chef, wherein lies a bona fide excursion into food-fantasy. From its induction-cook range, the uber-talented chef Sean Riley not only serves up but dreams up course after course right before your eyes.

While there’s no clear view of the water with seafood this fresh you’ll know that you must be close. Coast serves up creative and unusual pairings, such as Tunisan Seabass and fried plantain slices. Plump East Coast lobsters come seared with a subtly balanced, ever-so-tangy butternut squash risotto. There are plenty of beef, lamb, and chicken dishes on the menu here too, but it’s the seafood that stands out.