It’s a menu that changes seasonally, but popular mains - pizza with duck confit and sun-dried tomatoes and the parma prosciutto pizza with, roasted garlic, asparagus and fontina - are standard mainstays. Try the carpaccio of grain fed beef tenderloin ($14.50), which gets the classic grainy mustard treatment. With organic chestnut honey dressing, crumbled grana padano and extra virgin olive oil ensures that just about every diner except the jaded reviewer will fawn over.

Among the entrées, seafood was the star during our three visits. Filet of Arctic char ($29.50) offers black olive ratatouille and an anchovy caper dressing that warm the mouth without igniting it. Also good is the Ahi Tuna ($29.50), served rare with smoky bacon, wilted baby greens and asparagus.

In a sense, the Peace River Buffalo Striploin ($37.50) and the Maple Hills Farm chicken ($15.95) are like the Arctic Char: better than you get at most restaurants, but not quite as good for the price as what you would find at a top-quality, more specialized joint. On the other hand, the portions are bigger at CinCin, with the prime rib weighing more than 1 1/2 pounds.

Most desserts are $6.95 to $7.95, and their presentation is more elaborate than the restaurants’ other courses. Best of all is the extensive wine list that offers a variety of Old and New World Wines with thousands of bottles being housed in one of the finest wine cellars (with dozens by the glass) in the city, which caters for parties of up to 30. Manager/ Sommelier, Sebastien Le Goff administers his eminent French charm and warmth to the CinCin clientele. - R.B.