inCin is the kind of restaurant that's easy to take for granted. After a period last year when our favourite Robson Street restaurant seemed to be going through a funk, we’re thrilled to recount that both food and service at CinCin have bounced back in a big way.

CinCin's warm, comfortable décor, high ceilings and arched windows provide an Italian/Mediterranean feel, though the dining room doesn't infuse you with a sense of history or romance. Composed of gold walls, high arched windows, and terra-cotta tiles, CinCin is very comfortable. It's the sort of place where you can get a grade-driven Italian dinner and a bottle of wine while ogling the ongoing Robson Street parade.

Wander in on a weeknight and the dining room is liable to be packed, though the servers never seem overwhelmed. Service is efficient and friendly. A lively but stock music selection soundtracks the evening; a marble bar is nicely paired with Chef Romy Prasad’s menu of Italian fare.

As the menu will tell you, locals and visiting ‘star’ types congregate here for West Coast fare from the open kitchen and the wood-fired grill, oven, and rotisserie. I do wish, though, that they had warned us off of a couple of appetizers. The Grilled Baby Calamari ($12.50) with carrots, snow peas and leeks, was an affront to the wallet and the palate; the calamari came in a good spicy limoncello vinaigrette, but they were so watery that any flavour had vanished. The crab cakes ($12.95) were better, but were plump and steaming hot, with a mild red pepper sauce that added serious spark. Best was the Okanagan goat cheese terrine ($13.50) paired with walnut toasts with a salad frisée heaped with red peppers and basil.