hen they updated the MODA Hotel with an expensive series of renovations, the owners knew that the restaurants needed to remain equally impressive. So they brought in a hoitghy toighty chef all the way from the River Café in London.

Chef Neil Taylor's cuisine is based on Italian fare, and complemented by seasonal British Columbian ingredients. Flavourful dishes get their panache from broths, as opposed to sauces, keeping everyone in slim summer shape. What won't keep us trim? The Spinach Ricotta Ravioli, and English Pea and Mint Risotto; but our sources say they are delicious, and totally worth sporting a one piece for. And if you're going to go that route, do it well. Crispy Polenta and delicate deep-fried Courgette Blossoms are a satisfying comfort. The restaurant clearly takes pride in their ingredients; they tasted dozens of olive oils before they were able to pick the right one. The menu is paired with an immense wine menu of over 125 varieties from Italy and the Okanagan Valley.

The service should be no less than stellar; General Manager is Sahara Tamarin, brought in from Lumiere and Chow. While you dine on traditional Italian fare, admire the rustic qualities (trust us, it's complete) of exposed timber beams, a terracotta floor that goes back to 1908, and a floating marble fireplace. Plus it's convenient with the Orpheum Theatre around the corner. Cibo caters to the pre-threatre crowd with a $35 set menu. –C.S.