bove our table is a mounted print of Laurence Sackman’s untitled photograph of a woman lying on her stomach, back arched, with glorious bare bottom smiling plainly for the camera. It’s a sensual photograph, particularly with the disheveled sheets, as though inviting you to…well, certainly not to make the damn bed.

Unfortunately, our table is at Shiru-Bay (aka Chopstick Café), another of Vancouver’s joyous Izakayas – sort of a Japanese bistro meant to appease the thirst and hunger of locals without a lot of fuss. And when Shiru-Bay sticks to the Japanese, everything goes well. The food (about which, more later) is simple, not particularly pretty, but mostly a satisfying fusion of Japanese, Pan Asian and western presentation and ingredients.

The Hollywood prints on the walls clash awkwardly with the severity of the black Samurai costume encased in a glass box. Why Jules et Jim? Why Lolita? This sort of misplaced juxtaposition is as startling as the music, which I would describe as bluesy show tunes, and again, unfitting.

Shiru-Bay has a great deal of potential, but I had expected more from the Unos, who brought us two excellent Goo restaurants, not to mention (I have read) twenty similar Izakayas in Tokyo.

Our server tells us that Mr. and Mrs. Uno go to great lengths to bring chefs from Tokyo, and you see that in the open concept kitchen where a dozen uniformed cooks prepare a cuisine that may confuse those expecting maki rolls such as Vancouver’s ubiquitous BC Roll. Instead, you will find reasonably priced tapas plates. This food doesn’t touch Robson Street’s Hapa Izakaya; it’s more casual than that: almost pub fare.