With its many Korean BBQ houses, sushi spots, and now-popular Japanese Izakayas, the west end of Robson Street has become a mini Asia town. And in this mix of funky new spots, the outdated and faded Vietnamese spot at the corner of Nicola and Robson, Saigon, no longer had a place (nor did the Jehovah Witness' church -- but that's another story). It was time for some fresh paint, fresh faces, and a fresh take on Vietnamese cuisine. Enter the charming Maria Huynh and her family's newest project, Chau.

While Chau represents a modern interpretation of this Southeast Asian cuisine, Huynh comes from a traditional background in Vietnamese cooking. She grew up in her family's pho houses (My Chau on Kingsway and the Kim Chau deli) and is well versed in the basics. Huynh attended Vancouver's Dubrulle culinary school and finalized her education with a study of Vietnamese cuisine in her parent's home country. With Chau, she aims to bridge the cultures of Vietnam and Canada. She certainly did her research.

The room is as calming as the cuisine that Huynh serves. Chau effuses a soothing Zen feel. At night, candlelight flickers as soft pop plays and the resulting ambiance caters to the youngish crowd. Sparsely decorated, the space is awash in tones of taupe and brown, with prints of the Huynh family's past proudly displayed alongside scattered orchids.

Vegetarians will be pleased with the choices here, but there’s plenty for meat lovers as well. We started with a Buddha bowl soup filled with tofu and veggies in a flavourful mushroom and date stock. Also, we sampled the crisp but not too greasy spring rolls. There is either a chicken with taro selection, or vegetarian. You’ll find the familiar rice paper rolls, but they’re fancied up with additions like lemongrass chicken and vegetarian ham, as well as a selection fire-grilled skewers (our favourite was the house-made pork sausage). We went healthy with some Asian eggplant in a sweet chilli sauce and indulged in a pleasantly fatty order of seventeen-spice short ribs. The dishes come with a side of vermicelli noodles and cucumber and carrot pickle that balance the richness of the food.

Chau is also open for lunch when it serves innovative versions of the Vietnamese baguettes that are called Banh Mi. The bread is fresher than fresh and toppings include lemongrass chicken, sate beef steak, and tofu as well as the traditional cold cuts and pate. They’re topped with aioli, pickled vegetables, and refreshing cilantro. Grab one to go or head in for some Pho, hearty beef stew or one of Chau’s salads.