Burrito, are less startling but just as striking.

As for mains, Dubois' Paella ($13 or $24 full plate), is a mix of roasted monkfish, roasted halibut and saffron risotto, a sauté of squid, fresh cockles, linguisa, roasted pearl onions lima beans and artichoke hearts. The Bouillabaisse - Dubois’s own interpretation of the dish - is a lightly scented saffron and clove broth with roasted seafood and organic root vegetables. The Latin Cassoulet ($45 for two or $23 for one) features rustic braise of rabbit, kurabuto bacon, salchichon and oxtail, with a trinity of fresh herbs and roasted garlic; the Black Cod ($11 or $22 full plate) is a serving of roasted cod with cinnamon rioja jus, caramelized squash and Peruvian potatoes.

For dessert, there’s one standout: A Tasting for All. This is a plate of four bite-size treats: baby bananas and sweet rum gelee, a guava chiboust with butter cookies, key lime granite & cream cheese custard clove scented pineapple shooter with tapioca. Are you getting hambriento?

Already, Century is a happy place that seems to have found its rhythm. Century is that rare thing: the cure for the woes you didn't even know that you had. It is a restaurant for restaurant people; for people who want and expect the goods and know exactly what it costs. In short, it is an exciting new restructuring of a very old place. - J.R.