t appeared that we had underestimated the word-of-mouth buzz about Ben Coté’s elegantly simple, modern tapas fare. Cassis - located across from Wilson’s on the lesser traveled West Pender Street - might be oddly placed, barely adorned, serving a wickedly hodgepodge menu, but this little eatery, co-owned by Daniel McClintock, and Sam Wilcox, is a favourite among local food aficionados on a budget.

Even though it's a relatively recent implant, the chatter about Cassis has reached the right people. From where we stood near the door, we could see into the filled-to-capacity, open-kitchen dining room. The interior charm is brought out by green-ish walls, bare tables, a cocktail table with puffy armchairs at the back, and a waitstaff with post-grad attitude, enjoying themselves as they bop to their tables to take orders. Inexpensively framed prints hang around the room, while a natural wood tile floor is underfoot.

A DIY bar invites a look into the mutterings of the kitchen. It only hints at the scale of the more elaborate goings on. In the dimly lit establishment, you'll find the staples of the rock, techno and R&B scenes while munching on sharable plates. The secret to success lies in the strong ownership pedigree and alluring French flavours.

Coté interprets Northwest bounty with a French accent. Start with a salad nicoise that showcases slices of seared ahi tuna tossed with tender new potatoes, tangy capers and grain-mustard vinaigrette. The cassoulet of daube de boeuf, is rich and flavourful with house-made Burgundy broth arriving sizzling hot with enticing aromas. Meat falls off the bone of the succulent coq au vin bathed in port sauce with hints of pancetta. Again, the blending of flavors was superb, yet simple and unforced.

While a few menu items didn’t warrant any particular praise - a much ballyhooed bouillabaisse was salty beyond repair - it’s a void risk; nothing on the menu breaks the $10 mark, and some dishes are not available on the casual and less-expensive lunch menu. Revel in the cheesecake, twice baked to create layers of dense cake, and lemon tart.