Harry Kambolis, the King of the waterfront, continues his bid for best contemporary seafood dining in the land. No worries: C is the recipient of many global ‘Best Seafood’ awards. On the outset, C looks like your requisite sleek room (that just happens to overlook False Creek and Granville Island), but wait till you get to Chef Robert Clark's astounding menu of cooked seafood dishes, including a miso-flavoured black cod, plump scallops wrapped in octopus-bacon, and tempura sea urchin in a shiso leaf.

Portions are hearty and flavours bold and booming. Start with sea urchin in a shiso leaf, shucked oysters from the raw bar, try C's eight-course taster box - a noble variety of bites like tuna tartare, and side-striped shrimp - served precariously on a vertical bento exhibit.

Save room for the innovative mains, from an eight-course tasting menu featuring local seafood double-smoked bacon-wrapped Pacific sardine (the Aston Martin of fish) with maple syrup, octopus bacon wrapped Kagan Bay scallops, seared Quebec foie gras. A helpful wine list has been thoughtfully put together by sommelier Tom Doughty.