he original location (there's a new(ish) Yaletown location) opened to acclaim in 2004. Boasting a retro chic design and eclectic menu, Browns is a neighbourhood favourite. Scott Morison, former Cactus Club founder and owner, collaborated with Derek Archer, also of Cactus Club repute, to produce a crowd-pleasing menu with more than enough to choose from. An ambitious menu ranges from Chicken Pad Thai ($12) and various burgers ($9-$16) to Seared Ahi Tuna ($22) and Baby Back Ribs ($23).

The Seasonal Vegetable Plate ($11) that I started with evidences the West Coast influence. The dish comes with wild rice; normally plain white rice is the only option, so the assortment was a nice surprise. I followed that with the Spa Veggie Burger ($10), as I couldn’t get around that name; would it rejuvenate my skin, too? Not even close, but it was good-sized and well worth it. I washed it all down with a Bellini, which was mixed to perfection.

For dessert, I tried the Key Lime Pie. I’m not a big fan of desserts that don’t include chocolate, but I decided that I needed to try something new and took the plunge. It was quite refreshing, but not something I would undertake again. I’m sure if I was a big fan, it would have satisfied me - my guest had a bite and ended up finishing the rest of it quite enthusiastically.

The service was especially cheerful, maybe too much so. I almost felt like I was trapped in a Cactus Club Café: so many dazzling white smiles, so much giggly laughter. Why, oh why, do servers insist on being so extra-bubbly? It just looks exhausting. However, the drinks came promptly and the food followed shortly after, so I had no cause for complaint.

The atmosphere is inviting and perpetually full. The retro resto décor mixes modern fixings with good ol' days charm. Though the setting won't knock your socks off, Browns is reliably strong. - L.H.