For mains, the fisherman's stew ($18) arrives stainless steel bucket. The Pernod-fueled dish bursts with salmon, prawns and cod and dotted with a julienne of vegetables. A few slender clams were added which softened the light spice. You have probably had something similar, but you are probably glad to have it again.

The grilled hanger steak and Chicken with blue cheese are of good quality, although once the filet was overcooked. Beef Bourguignon ($17.00) is very substantial, tender, rich and hearty.

While on the topic of rice, I will veer off the cheerleading path for a moment to note that the restaurant’s apple tart and the chocolate mousse profiteroles are both bland disappointments, lacking the aroma and the texture one expects from desserts at a good French restaurant. Still, the owners have succeeded in injecting a bit of energy into the local restaurant scene, and that's something of an achievement.