If you really concentrate, the shy wink of a space known as Bistrot Bistro can feel like what it essentially is - a cozy French eatery. The new Kitsilano spot, a fine addition to the new restaurant row (added to the likes of Gastropod and Fuel), invites diners to an insouciant slice of the Left Bank.

The destination is a simpler, cleaner, more honest French, with strong, pure flavours and back-to-basics cooking techniques. But in pursuit of this vision, owners Laurent and Valérie Devin, have reached back to their childhood memories in France to emulate the distinctive French dining experience.

Somehow, from the moment it opened, the Bistrot felt as if it had always been there. Much of this is due to the perfectly-metered service, which has the easy assurance associated with an older restaurant. In such solicitous surroundings, it is easy to relax. The waiters want you to be comfortable and Valérie often ventures suggestions.

Her pride is justified: the French list is surprisingly long for a new restaurant and it is filled with little discoveries at a variety of prices. The wine program focuses on food compatibility, diversity, and above all else, value. A state-of-the-art preservation system ensures that every wine featured on their list is available to you by the glass.

The room is hushed in that vaguely muffled French sort of way, with a team of well groomed, faultlessly polite servers marching to and fro. Unadorned wood tables, banquette seating, slate flooring, and an open-kitchen are highlighted by a lime green colour scheme. On the wall, four clocks are set to different time zones.