'm thinking of three things: animal rights, French new wave, and puns. I wish the title of this resto-lounge had a Brigitte prefix, but I suppose that would be a little too law-suit-inducing. A waterfront (not just a marketing ploy) chic dome, Bardot serves surprisingly affordable, aesthetically alluring, Mediterranean fare, including a cavalcade of well-prepared meat (take that, Mlle. "I don't act anymore"). At night, BWBandG (wonderful) often welcomes schmoove goatee tunes from a smoke-missing contingent of jazz blowers. -S.T.