The fun and exciting thing about eating at Chinese food restaurants had been the authenticity and experience that wasn't found in most Western-style restaurants. But the times have changes, with traditional Chinese restaurants becoming so commonplace, they fit right in with the Starbucks-esque restaurant feed-them-and-get-them-out template. Shame, really. Now, long-time Chambar owner Tannis Ling has left her post behind, and has gotten creative with the opening of her Chinese/Bistro-ish restaurant, Bao Bei.

Try and picture your favourite traditional Chinese food store; what’s in your head is probably a Mandarin Buffet, with large place settings and large portions with tacky red carpets. No offense to the culture; it has been the North Americanism that has worn it thin. Thankfully going against the stereotypical grain, Bao Bei has a different schedule. The space itself has a cool and slick concept to it, with 50 seats around round tables in a 2,200 square foot room; it’s considerably cozy in an intimate sort of way.

Take a closer look at the décor; only authentic Chinese artifacts decorate the space. The fare - in the same vein as the environment - are solely Chinese ingredients, but served up with a French twist and modern cooking styles. Dishes like the Duck Congee have Ling’s personal touch to them. Traditionally it’s a bland dish that doesn’t appeal to the common Westerner, so the Bao Bei chef cooks the broth with duck fat; adds tenderly cooked duck to it, dash in some crisp skin, dazzling up one not-so-plain broth bowl. The menu is filled with other combined creations that Ling and her half-Japanese, half French chef Joel Watanabe (La Brasserie, Bin 942, Araxi) have put together...traditional ingredients from Ling's own mother's recipes cooked in an original way.

Other things that differentiate Bao Bei from typical Chinese are the ingredient choices. Ling’s kitchen promises only organic, fair trade, cage-free meat, no preservatives and all that other great stuff that’s usually found in Oriental restaurants. House-made condiments ensure you’re eating sustainable food; with any luck, this food will actually be filling, not leaving you hungry in an hour. Ling herself is supervising the creative bar program, while the front of house will be handled by Paul Grunberg, most recently of the super-chic MARKET.

Will the whole “cultural mix” work out for this place? The restaurant has had its crazy-ass initiation with the Olympics moving in, fewer people are venturing outside of the downtown area over to Chinatown. The only downside is the dining room, a cramped space that fills up quickly during the dinner hour, but the tight quarters are offset by service that's prompt and consistent. This place is crowded for a reason.

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