remember: our overnight winter train stopped in Bologna, stranding us from 3:00am until dawn, breadless and without cheap meat. Weary travelers and semi-homeless locals huddled in the departure lounge, eyeing each other with suspicion. We surreptitiously joked about bologna sandwiches, but no one found us funny.

Like the Bologna train station, Amarcord (Italian for "I remember") doesn't have bologna sandwiches, but it does have fine Bolognese fare, including a Garfield-pleasing lasagna, killer risotto, and reliable chicken and seafood dishes. It really strikes a - never mind. - S.T.