
on't be fooled by the drab exterior - the vibe within this pub-meets-vegetarian-restaurant - with its Goodwill accoutrements and medieval chandelier dangling from the rafters - is striking. Taking up residency in the former Portuguese men's club Benifica Cafe, Magpie, serves up vegetarian fare, while delivering a quaint and unpretentious feel. What it lacks in sophistication, it delivers in a truckload of personality, making you feel like you’ve stumbled into a speakeasy gathering.
After a quiet weeknight visit, I decided to try Magpie on a weekend. Like most places in Toronto, if you’re going somewhere for the first time and you’re not sure of the address, just set your radar for the smokers in front. From the street, the sign is unassuming and their small sandwich board can easily be missed. Once inside, the dimly lit (maybe too dim) room has a vibe that’s easy to find comfort in. In an understated appearance, the back left corner is filled with banquettes and tables that seem a little too cosy.
Owners Shawn Merritt and Anthony D'Arcy have decorated the walls with arresting and provocative art, ripe with political undertones that may go unnoticed due to the twilight cast by the sole medieval chandelier suspended over the bar. Add a mish-mash of garage sale contenders from grandma’s attic, iconic childhood items like a pair of 1960’s ice skates hung randomly on the wall and a beer fridge crowned with a smoking pipe and an old school sled straight from Citizen Kane.
There’s a stage area - minus a riser - with a piano for weekly performances by local talent. On my visit, the always entertaining and wacky Sean Cullen, accompanied with an electric guitarist, was performing some of his rambunctious comedy rock tracks, which included, “The incredible hulk song” and the infectious “A friend in porn”.
The Magpie menu is very simple; all vegetarian and priced below $10. Based on the selection, I wouldn’t be surprised if it changed from week to week. As for bevies, they have a surprisingly decent roster of beers at affordable prices ($5 - $6).