I don't think it's too far of a stretch to call Toronto one of the best nightlife cities in Canada. Or at least, it has the potential to be. If Circa's Liquor License hardships of a couple of years ago or the recent moratorium on new bars and restaurants on Ossington Avenue have taught us anything, it's that Toronto is in a constant struggle between nightlife promoters and those whose job it is to control it. Although there is a vibrant bar scene in Toronto (otherwise, martiniboys.com would have nothing to write about), in a way Toronto doesn't actually have any True bars.

Allow me to explain. The Alcohol Gaming Commission of Ontario (the AGCO) states that in order to obtain a Liquor Sales License, an establishment is required to serve light meals, which "usually, but not always, include five main selections with at least four snacks or side dishes. The licensee must offer a selection that will allow a reasonable variety of meals, either as a single order or by combining orders." Distilling that to its essence, it says "No food, no booze."

On the one hand, eating while drinking alcohol will temper the effects of intoxication. On the other hand, this requires bar owners to install often costly facilities in order to prepare the "light meals" that are obligatory for them to serve alcohol. In a sense, it means that bars can't exist without also acting as restaurants or cafes. Some of the divier dive bars in Toronto react by offering a few token food items that most people wouldn't want to touch with a ten foot pole, some potential bar owners go the restaurant route and prepare a whole elaborate menu and hire a chef, and some are deterred altogether.

But as long as there are rules, there are exceptions, and some bars in Toronto have found creative ways to skirt around the AGCO's restrictive liquor laws. To look for an example, it's hard not to venture towards Ossington. Since the strip went from a slightly sketchy corner of Little Portugal to a trendy bar and restaurant haunt in such an accelerated period of time, many new owners were forced to transform former bakeries and video stores rather than pre-existing bars and restaurants, meaning that they not only had to start the arduous liquor license process from scratch, but they also had to install kitchens.

The Painted Lady was originally a Portuguese bakery before New Orleans natives Nicky Potter and her partner Sam transformed the space into a quirky, character-filled bar. Rather than put in a kitchen, Nicky's sister and bartender Jessica Potter created a menu that requires nothing more than a small convection oven and microwave at the end of the bar. Jessie's Dead Sexy Badass Motherfucking Pulled Pork (yes, that's what it's called) uses pork that is not smoked, but braised, and White Trash Nachos use Fritos and Cheez Whiz, rather than tortilla chips and melted cheese. It's quirky, tongue-in-cheek, and also creative.