ocal long-legged fourteen-year-old beauties are on display mode and used as living hangers the week, as the exposure is just as important for any budding model. For the ever-increasing amount of Canadian models out there this is a sure-fire event they can all count on. We will be eyeing the new collections with eager detail and reporting on which designers hit the mark, who shocked us and who failed miserably. Up-and-coming designers and models will be discussed and dissected, even pined for in the coming week. Feel free to weigh in with your own opinions and stories. (discussions at bottom of the page).



PINK COBRA

Tattoo Rock Bar was busier then I have ever seen it on the night of the Pink Cobra fashion show. The venue was packed to the rafters with lovers of the Pink Cobra line, and Carte Blanche - the store the designers own on Queen West. I must have seen at least seven ladies working the line’s eponymous black mini skirt made out of wide elastic bands with a scuba zipper up the back. I was planning on wearing that skirt myself, but a last minute outfit decision saved me from blending in.

Tattoo was so full that to get from one side of the room to the other was an effort in martial arts. I left right after the show wrapped up because my claustrophobia was setting in and pushy people were giving me bruises. I shot the show from the raised bottle service area at the back and it was all I could do to keep people from trying to push me down the stairs as I was taking pictures. The whole ordeal was quite frustrating, which was a shame, because the show was amazing.

The stage was set with two revolving platforms on either side with a section of chain link fence in the middle. Two models occupied the stage at a time. First they mounted the platforms which spun them slowly around, giving us all a good look at the outfit from every angle. Then the models took turns posing in front of the metal fence. That fence, by the way, was very Gia. I was wishing the girls would get naked just to complete the reference.

The clothes were black with a few silver pieces. Everything was rock ‘n’ roll to the max and sexy as hell. Backless skintight mini dresses with shoulder pads were a crowd favourite along with a neat pair of uber-high-waisted black pants with a pleated front and a very interesting belt. There was one look that was right out of Madonna’s last tour with a spandex leotard over leggings. It’s tough to go wrong when you’re badass and that’s exactly what Pink Cobra is.

The designers’ fan club just got a whole lot bigger, and it was pretty vast to begin with. Those designers better get to their sewing machines because I predict an influx of young ladies looking to get their edge on and spend some cash at Carte Blanche. Pink Cobra serves up hard core fashion with a bite. We’re so happy to call them Canadian. They give us Canucks street cred in the fashion world. Lord knows we need it.



RUDSAK

One of the last shows to grace the runways at Toronto Fashion Week, the RUDSAK show, worked that catwalk like a well-oiled machine. After missing the gsus show on account of my failed camera battery and two subsequent hours of running around the city looking for a replacement, I managed to make it to the RUDSAK show in one piece with camera poised and ready. I jumped into the mosh pit of cameras at the end of the runway and jostled for a decent shot. I ended up hovering above a man shooting on his knees with the lens of a heavy duty video camera grazing my neck. Being the regular TTC rider that I am, I felt right at home.

After a lengthy but heartfelt speech by the Week’s director, the lights went down and burst up again on the RUDSAK logo displayed prominently at the end of the runway. And then the fun began. Knee-high boots and all the outer wear anybody could ever ask for paraded down the catwalk.

Being the regular TTC rider that I am, I felt right at home.

These Montrealers have always known how to do winter and this season was no different. Various coat incarnations - sometimes leather, sometimes down-filled - were displayed in black, chocolate, cream, white and grey. There were a few lovely red bag accents that, when shown by a red-headed model, really looked quite stunning.

And, by the way, RUDSAK does a fine bag, hat and belt as well as their coveted coat. This season, belts are wide and prevalent, cinching puffy overcoats to create a slim silhouette. The hats are low-sitting bucket hats that looked ravishing on the runway with the models long locks even if their vision was slightly impaired. The boots were all above the knee, a look that worked best when paired with tights and the label’s new leather shorts.

The bottom line is, go to RUDSAK if you think your leather outerwear needs an overhaul. The brand continues to pump out quality garment after garment, helping to make the dismal weather of winter a fashionable thing.



ANDY THÉ-ANH

The tent was more populated then I’ve seen it so far this week at the Andy Thé-Anh show. While fashionistas scurried around trying to find their assigned seats in the disorganized mess, the flurry of photographers at the end of the runway did lighting tests on a posing model wannabe. At about 8:30pm announcements to “Sit down!” were bellowed over the loudspeaker. With every seat in the place occupied and a hefty amount of standing spectators, the lights came up and the much-awaited show began.

Two models lingered underneath an Andy Thé-Anh sign at the start of the runway while a kicked up version of Tina Turner’s "Proud Mary" reverberated out of the sound system. After the patent “nice and easy” speech the song kicked into its bass line, the lights came up and the models started walking. Well, not exactly walking. More like shuffling or tentative baby-stepped mincing. It was sad really. With such a powerhouse soundtrack to pose to, the models’ inability to walk was a big disappointment. I asked a model afterwards why they all looked crippled and she said that the runway was slippery. Was that some kind of cruel joke on the janitor’s part? She just decided she was going to mess with the models and shellacked the floor a few times? Who knows? It’s all over now.

Stiff models aside, the clothes were full of Andy’s feminine flare. Almost every piece was skin tight, especially the plethora of high-waisted wide-band skirts that did the job of a corset. Flirty yet beautiful, the Andy girl this season was bound to grab your attention and have you take her seriously. Great attention was given to the backs of things with pretty little eye-catching details drawing the viewer’s eye along the back of the girls’ necks. The Marc Anthony up-do with loose curls lifted up off the neck accentuated Andy’s designs.

The dresses and the necklaces were the highlights of this show for me. Flowing, wispy, slightly see-through gowns seemed to float down the runway. The Oscar-worthy dresses were often paired with heavy black necklaces that looked like a romantic got into a car crash with a dominatrix. All the necklaces were an odd mixture. There were some with fur collars attached to strings of jewels and others with full-on shirt collars. It’s tough to say how well these unusual items will be received by the general public but they did impress on the runway. For that strapless number that has you feeling a bit underdressed, a collared necklace might be the perfect thing to finish off the look. Maybe not.

The dresses were lovely, the models were stiff and the soundtrack had my head bopping the whole time. Congratulations to Andy for pulling off such an involved show without a hitch. Only time will tell how well he will sell.



MISS ROWE

With bags under my eyes from a late night before and dressed like a really toasty hobo I arrived at Brassaii where miss rowe was doing her fashion week thing. An adorable hostess greeted me at the door, checked my name off the coveted list and whisked me away to a bright, private back room full of chic put-together women in black. Apparently I missed the memo in my fluorescent bulbous turquoise toque. I was about to run away before I made the hideous first impression being forecasted when I caught a glimpse of the clothes. Well, I simply had to take a closer look.

miss rowe is the brain child of Ashley Rowe, a Toronto designer with previous work experience at Holt’s and Flare Magazine. It’s no wonder she grew out of both. Her slight twenty piece collection was aptly entitled “black” following her Spring line, “white.” Every garment was shown in the opaque hue hence the black clad crowd. I have to comment on how refreshing it was to come across a designer more focused on quality than quantity. Granted, if Ashley had decided to put on a show it would have lasted less than five minutes, but she didn’t. She did an installation. In that lovely back room with tea and crumpets, three racks carrying one of each piece in the collection just begged to be flipped through. With a knowledgeable tour guide, I made my way from garment to garment constantly suppressing squeals of mirth and glee at miss rowe’s divine craftsmanship.

In every piece the attention to detail was much appreciated. Ashley has a tendency to line her clothes in 100% silk which is simply luxurious. Even the dropped waist leather pants, which went though about seven fittings before she got them just right, were lined in luscious silk. The whole collection was comfortable, chic beyond compare and versatile. Finally here’s a designer who understands the needs of a woman on the run. With a packed business day and bustling social lives to boot, we don’t have the time to be running home and changing in the midst of it all, but most of the time our day outfits don’t carry into the evening. In miss rowe’s clothes you’ll be ready for anything. If I had a few of these pieces I would have avoided my awkward faux pas moment at the door.

The looped wool bustier with a heart top and a concave bottom in the front fell lower in the back which gave the saucy impression of a bunny tail. The boxy jackets and wide-leg pants created a much sought after slim yet comfortable silhouette that I am hoping the rest of the fashion world will pick up on. With her exquisite fabric choices and delicate craftsmanship, miss rowe will no doubt be getting bombarded for special orders from every angle. Lord knows, I’ll be giving her a ring. I just have to save up $1500 first.



KENNETH COLE

Nestled in between a vacant raised runway and a broadcasting reporter from Naked News, who would later nipple-flash a crowd of innocent bystanders, I sipped on a pungent olive-laden vodka martini and took in the crowd on Tuesday night. All the scensters from the L’Oreal tent had seemingly relocated to Ultra Supperclub en masse to continue the superficial, self-congratulatory aura that generally surrounds anything “fashion.” We were all awaiting the advertised Kenneth Cole show that was slated to begin at 11:30pm. Two martinis later, at 12:30am, a shift in light and music signified the commencement of the show.

Now, I’m not sure who styled this show or where they got the clothes from, but I’m pretty sure Kenneth Cole had nothing to do with it. A fresh collection of NAM models strutted along the runway in artlessly styled outfits. My guess is that a local stylist raided the Kenneth Cole rack at Holt Renfrew and threw together what he could from their limited selection.

The show was more of a showcase for NAM’s new faces than a fashion show. The men were right on point with their chiseled jaws and sophisticated swaggers. The women, on the other hand, looked like they were about 13 years old and subsequently had a tough time pulling off Kenneth’s mature gear. The most promising models debuted were twin sisters with luscious locks of long wavy hair (done by Marc Anthony, no less). The two girls were eerily identical and made quite an impression walking the runway side by side.

The star of the show was the infamous Stacey McKenzie who appeared in the Bustle show earlier that evening and had apparently forgotten her pants. Another faux pas by the stylist, I’m sure.

I was appreciative of the nipple-flash and the martinis, but I think from now on in I’m going to stick to the L’Oreal sponsored shows that focus on real fashion innovation.



BUSTLE
The bustle show got me all hot and bothered. I’ve never seen so many fine men in one room in Toronto my whole life. I don’t believe they all live here, even. There must have been a European import somewhere along the line. Or perhaps my fatal attraction was a result of the clothes. Bustle’s designers, Shawn Hewson and Ruth Promislow, really hit it on the mark this time around. The Bustle man was well dressed – usually in a three piece suit – with “done” hair and shined shoes. Pairing handsome colours like deep purple and navy pinstripe or sailor blue on cream on grey was an original touch. The boys were masculine and you could just tell how good they felt all dressed up. It’s not hard boys, and Bustle will do all the work for you.

My camera kept popping along as model after model did his thing. The runway was laden with $100 bills that kept sticking to the models shoes. I suppose when your look oozes an aura of lavish riches, grinding hundreds into the pavement isn’t something you think twice about. Must be nice.

Most of the looks were three piece suits with mismatched jacket, vest and pant. The variety made for a more casual take on the suit along with the often cuffed jacket sleeves. Like a professor working overtime or a father helping out with homework, the Bustle man is easy to love. The only setback to this show was the tuxedo. It was pinstriped with wide lines of alternating silk and cotton fabric. Granted the effect was flashy – like a Kanye West video – but the whole tux was an overkill of extravagance that bordered on tacky. I did enjoy when the pants were paired with a simple white dress shirt and nothing more. Silk pants on men are a delicate matter not to be overdone.

There were a couple of looks for the ladies as well, which were variations of the men’s line. One look pulled together a purple vest with brown suspenders and wide leg navy pinstripe trousers. It was sexy, feminine and comfortable. I only wished for more. The infamous strange face, Stacey McKenzie, finished off the show in a women’s version of the questionable tuxedo mentioned above. The crowd went wild for the aging model who has retained her odd looks well.

In terms of craftsmanship, execution and style, Bustle put on the best show of the day. I only hope to see more of their women’s line in the future.



EVAN & DEAN
Evan & Dean deserve a standing ovation for their attention to detail. The adorable lovers showed a stunning collection that will go miles to bolster their reputation as international high-end fashion designers. The look was an amalgamation of 80’s punk rock and 18th century romanticism. All the results were impressive although some fell short on the style spectrum.

The models’ hair was done up in curly French bouffants that were reminiscent of Grace Jones’ flat top. When a shimmering chocolate suit with shoulder pads and a darted waist paraded past, it become clear that the 80’s throw back was full-fledged. This was also the frowning moment of the show when everyone leaned over to their neighbour and whispered, “What is that?”

Thankfully, the remaining risks taken by the pair were well-received and wearable. My favourite items included a pair of wood-heeled black leather/patent leather booties and a featherette fall coat. The latter was a shade of the palest rose and was outfitted with a wide collar that finished at the bottom hem. The faux feather effect made the coat look light and airy. It was reminiscent of the A-line sheepskin coats that were so prevalent on the 70’s.

As was mentioned previously, the details were the icing on the cake. Jewelled gloves, leg warmers with pompoms, scarves over necklaces and the phenomenal shoes were a display of Evan & Dean’s talent and dedication. I have a feeling these boys are going to go far in the fashion world. It is by all counts about time. We can’t sing dSquared2’s praises for much longer without admitting that they are full on Italianos these days. We’re counting on you, Evan & Dean.



PRELOVED
Oh, the beloved Preloved. We, your devoted fans, are so very glad that you managed to pick up the ashes out of the flames and start anew. The show must go on after all and a little sympathetic love can go a long way. Judging from the populous crowd stuffing themselves into the seats lining the runway at the big tent, their fan club is bigger then ever.

The show started off sugar sweet. Smiling models tiptoed around in twenties inspired suits, hats and mary-janes. The look was eerily akin to Marc Jacobs last collection, but there are worse inspirations to emulate. Double-breasted jackets with above-the-knee skirts and colourful tights gave the girls a flapper-gone-corporate kind of feel. Two-toned bucket hats topped off this put together look that epitomized the “dressed” woman.

Then the show took a sudden turn. The sugar sweet, innocent vibe gave way to heavy beats and sexy clothes. Gone was the immaculately dressed woman in place of a spunky, sexy girl who was looking to take a risk. The highlight of the second half were the old man knit sweaters re-done as tops and dresses. Unrecognizable in their reincarnated form, the knits survived the surgery. With heavy cowl-necked collars and cinched high waists, the look was undoubtedly feminine, pretty and cool as a cucumber.

We wish Preloved a venerable comeback because we feel bad about the fire, but mostly because we want to buy their clothes.



LEWD
Lewd, the naughty Montreal export, put on a surprisingly sophisticated show. Considering that the label is notorious for their casual lifestyle wear with an edge it was refreshing to see that the line had matured. And I don’t mean to say that the label has veered from its tried-and-true mantra. They have simply done it better. I suppose these things happen with age.

In hues of black, white and forest green, the Fall-focused garments paraded down the runway on the backs of professional models. These boys and girls knew how to work it. These models sold the line a lot better than some of the other brands’ model choices who often looked awkward, uncomfortable and even depressed at times. The Lewd models looked like they were happy to be in the clothes they were in and rightly so.

The standout piece of the collection was a pair of slinky low-rise black pants that were tapered at the bottom but billowed out around the thigh area in an Aladdin-esque fashion. Perfect for wearing with a pair of high riding boots and super comfy, these pants are going to fly off the shelves.

The women’s clothes looked like they were made to live in. Think loose-fitting shirt-dresses with tights and heels. It’s not everyday we get to be comfortable in our clothes and look sexy at the same time. Too often women parade around in uncomfortable stilts and circulation-restricting belts. I’m sure Lewd will be appreciated for its effort in this area.

The men’s clothes were tighter fitting giving the boys a muscular silhouette. One male model strolled down the runway wielding an acoustic guitar which I took to mean that these clothes are meant for artsy types. That’s right, I can take a hint.

In my opinion, Lewd’s line is more versatile than “artsy” and could be rocked by people of all shapes and styles. The flirty dresses, Parisian stripes and Aladdin pants, paired the right way, would be beneficial additions to any style connoisseur’s closet. Way to evolve, Lewd.



MELLINDA-MAE HARLINGTEN
In a flurry of black, red, white and grey the MMH girls hurried along the runway in their polyester garb. I felt like I was stuck in a bad dream where I was being forced to go back in time to Le Chateau last summer. The colour palette was the only thing holding this show together. It seemed as if Harlingten had read all about last season’s trends and decided to try each and every one out from the babushka to the high-waisted wide-leg pant. To her credit, it was a wearable line that cautious shoppers will buy, but my inate disappointment stemmed from her lack of artistic risk. There were three looks that showed off a bit of fashion flare and were worth a mention.

The first was a black satin single-breasted skinny-pant suit with red lacquered pumps and a cocked red top hat. It was really the top hat that made the look for me. All the hats in the show made the outfits under them unique although we have seen the Pete Doherty pushed-back panama quite a few times now.

The second outstanding look was more for the office than anything else. A comfy pair of wide-leg grey pants with a loose red suit jacket and a thin scarf tied loosely about the neck made up a well-put-together outfit even if it was the safest thing since birth control.

Finally, a bulbous white mini-dress with a roomy hood and sleeves dripping in fabric floated down the runway. The effect was angelic and futuristic at once – a sort of premonition effect. This kind of comfortable, functional garment that looks interesting and moves with its wearer shows some real talent on Harlingten’s part. I only wish she would come out of her shell a bit.

This was a disappointing start to the week, but things can only go up from here. Take a peak at the Sartorialist Blog for a sneak peak at what was going on behind the scenes.