Service is top notch, and, it should be noted, are the same polished Xacutti team. Desserts are as richly satisfying as they promise – those cinnamon doughnuts with coffee ice cream are still a rich hit - but Moore’s cooking has enough heart to keep you coming back. In the words of Nigel Tufnel, "This one goes to eleven. It's one louder, innit?"

Our next numerical nosh-ery is Four: This one's not open yet, but when it opens on February 27, I'll be curious to see if they put enough thought into the name. Four, is apparently in reference to the seasons and not the location in the old "Soul of the Vine" space Commerce Court South, on the concourse level.

What they're billing as the "first healthy, upscale restaurant created to offer guests top quality, chef-driven dishes without all the calories normally associated with high end cuisine", is the latest appendage to SIR Corp.'s long list of eateries. Four will focus on a seasonally changing menu with small plate varieties, using ingredients like spelt flour, ancient grains, buckwheat noodles, and other complex carbohydrates. Small plates, as many combinations promise to have such assertive flavours that sometimes less is more.

In developing the menu, SIR Corp.'s Executive Corporate Chef Gord Mackie was inspired by the cuisine and cooking techniques of international countries and regions including the Mediterranean, India and Japan. Mackie, who has an intriguing résumé that includes the menus at both Far Niente and reds bistro & wine bar, has focused on core cooking techniques such as steaming, grilling and broiling. Steamers have been installed in the kitchen and no deep fryer will be in the house. Mackie worked with Canadian certified nutritionist Rosie McLean, who assessed the caloric value of the menu items.

Don't expect diet fare; the menu will feature high carb/low fat plates like Jerk Shrimp with pineapple salsa, Beef Tenderloin with roasted root vegetables and Striped Bass, Yukon potatoes, braised green beans, chipotle. Healthy plates without losing out on flavour.

The über-design of the space aims for a grown-up mix of vegetarian cuisine and fun; food that doesn't take itself too seriously, but which is nonetheless carefully thought out and executed. As for the name, they should have gone with the Norwegian translation: Sesongene. Great word. Always liked the sound of it. Nonetheless, Four it is.