
t’s inevitable during a jaunt through Central Park (a little further SE of Strawberry Hill but before the Lit walk) that the hunger bug will kick in when you get a whiff of those delicious street treats. Convenience comes cheap and quality is not lacking. A variety of vendors are purveying the very best in portable eats for people on the go. That heavenly, cheesy, salty pretzel filled with molten cheddar and dipped in the perfect amount of mustard (spicy or honey please) can rival some of New York’s finest five-star meals.
Informed foodies know that the DOH has been all over the Big Apple’s dining scene like a wet blanket and prompting closures of some of the city’s most-loved eating establishments (Di Fara par example). Urbanites have had to resort to the tasty street food as a result after years of associating all things street with all things meat.
The renaissance in portable food vending has been met with a warm welcome since ethnic offerings are in as much abundance on the street-dining scene as they are in reputable eateries. An extra bonus; street cuisine is often a fraction of the cost of dining within classy restaurants.
The four main categories of vendors seen on the street fall within the following; the infamous hot dog stand; fresh fruit carts; coffee stalls; and now kebab vendors. While some of you might be just shocked to discover that there is no control on the quality of meat purveyed by these portable outlets, the Department of Health does make a requisite yearly inspection, and there is the occasional random inspection that can take vendors down.
Now that the basics are covered, there is also an array of alternative food options sold from street carts. Falafel, gyros, kebabs, Daisy May’s chili and barbecue, Gelato from Otto’s cart, Piedad Cano’s Colombian arepas, NY Dosas (South Indian rice crepes), candied nuts, popcorn, Mexican tamales, Afghan barbecue chicken, fish and deli sandwiches, spicy tacos, burgers, rice noodles, ramen, jerk chicken, and finally, sweet confectioneries in the form of cupcakes, are offerings that can be found on the streets of New York. You can thank multiculturalism and the abundance of immigrants arriving yearly to the city for the wonderful culinary selection.
So how does NY measure up to the other World Class Cities?
The epicenter of fine cuisine, Paris, is renowned internationally for the coveted Michelin stars and not necessarily their street-dining scene. That being said, the portable food stands do make a presence with crêpe carts all over the city. From savory ham, cheese and egg filled crêpes to sweet Nutella-infused, banana and Grand Marnier crêpes, these stands populate the French city on a scale parallel to NYC hot dog carts.
London (England) is an exception, as the Health & Safety department has implemented such strict laws that all but prohibit the sale of meat on the street. When you do find such an elusive vendor (perhaps by Big Ben), it will be the worst experience of portable food in your life (trust me – been there, done that).
Despite this set-back, the British capital more than makes up for it with the abundance of markets in the city (Camden, Smithfield, Billingsgate, Shepherd’s Bush, Covent Garden, Brick Lane, Piccadilly, Portobello and Borough markets come to mind).
Travelling down to what once was the jewel in England’s crown, Indian street food has remained a staple of the culture with the popular Delhi offering: Chaat. The spicy and savory mix incorporates variety of aromatic ingredients that includes chopped onions, coriander, black salt, salt, black pepper, dried mango powder, cumin, dried ginger, red pepper and yogurt typically served on fried dough or with sev (dried yellow noodles). A “cumin and seasoning salt”-infused piece of BBQ corn is an equally tasty option. With a significant portion of the population either refusing to eat pork or worshiping the cow, you won’t see a hot dog cart around here anytime soon.
So it appears NYC reigns supreme in offering the best selection of international and ethnic street cuisine within an urban center. It’s readily apparent that willing customers are trading the atmosphere of fine dining institutions for more economical streateries and the sunny outdoors.
Here's a suggestion for the threatened establishments: open your own vendor carts so your devoted clientèle can eat Jean Georges fare on the go. I’d pay top dollar for Mr. Vongerichten to personally BBQ a wild boar sausage.
-E.J.