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o matter how many fabulous cookbooks hit the shelves each year, and regardless of Food Network programming, we'd still rather have someone else do the cooking for us. True, many local eateries fail to inspire or entice and a good new spot is harder to find than a weed on a Rosedale lawn, but don't despair; for your sit, chew, and don't-wash-the-dishes pleasure, we've compiled a list of the nascent gastro spots that, due to stunning atmosphere, proficient service, and remarkable food, stand out from the crowd. That's why we get the big bucks. And here they are - not the bucks, but the best new restaurants in Toronto:
Torito
This little cantina is one of those rare eateries that defies easy categorization. The setting is modest but crisply appointed: exposed brick walls, local artwork and elegant olive oil and piquillo peppers methodically lined up on display. The bucolic picnic table seating arrangements are, more often than not, full. The menu starts slow, with octopus terrine and a smooth chestnut and chorizo soup, before progressing to more interesting options like the well-seasoned Chilean tripe stew and a rustic braised beef cheek. But not everything relies on those big blasts of flavour: a trio of vivid red Spanish piquillo peppers stuffed with smooth whipped salted cod and artfully arranged around a kaleidoscope of black olive sauce is among the most memorable dishes I've had all year. 276 Augusta Avenue 647-436-5874 – D.E.
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Trevor Kitchen
Trevor's hip-ness gives the front bar area an off-balance, where's-this-guy's-head-at edge, but with Trevor Wilkinson as chef and Josh Wolf as chef du cuisine, the fare is simple, sophisticated, and minutely attended to. As a starter, the excellent Duck Liver Mousse, rich and decadent, is paired with a smooth pear puree. For a main, the Macadamia Nut Crusted Berkshire Pork Loin with Pear and Pancetta Tartlette ($23) is tender and cooked perfectly. The Tartlette, paired well with the pork, is delicious enough to suppress its prostitute-connoting title. For dessert try an updated Archie's-comic-date-staple: the Banana Split for two ($9). Trevor's atmosphere, hip and upscale, doesn't detract from the hallowed, hold hands in the park, do the crossword in bed relationship between diner and meal. 38 Wellington Street East, 416-941-9410 - J.L.
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KiWe Kitchen
With a new spin on comfort fare, this King West hot spot draws a frenzied, sexy crowd. Comprised of three separate, nearly disparate areas, KiWe innovatively runs the vibe gamut. Chef Aldo Lanzilotta's menu mirrors the cleverness of the décor. Dishes are uncomplicated and fresh. A seared tuna with prosciutto, sliced into four medallions and arranged over slightly bitter white beans in a tart tomato sauce, is seared to a slight crisp on the outside, with a symbiotically perfect tender inside. A juicy beef tenderloin is also nicely seared and anointed with a side of fingerling potatoes. By keeping things casual and light, KiWe’s founders have managed to appease the dining and social needs of the suits, the club-goers, and the moms and pops in the area. 587 King Street West, 416-203-0551. - V.F.
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Maro
Maro’s basic premise - high-level Euro-Asian fare served in a supper club setting - is an alluring one. Chef David Adjey, working from a frenzied, open-concept kitchen, has concoted a menu composed of Euro-Asian mishmash. The Beef Plate, a collaboration of arugula, balsamic, and truffle for the Euro version, and tempura battered asparagus with shitake mushrooms and a dash of Sapporo for the Asian option showcases Maro's flavour versatility. The pan-seared Vension Foie Gras with dates, served with rich and creamy butternut squash gnocchi, is a Maro signature. This nascent gastro spot lures the young and upwardly mobile neighbourhood denizens with distinct tastes and the disposable income to pay for a Champagne-lubricated schmooze fest. Bring your Blackberry. 135 Liberty Street, 416-588-2888 - V.F.
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