Faced with an archaic liquor license application system and a curmudgeonly puritanical city councilor business partners Jennifer Decourte, Peter Tsang, and J.P. Challet's wide-eyed optimistic has turned into disillusioned frustration. Back in the beginning of July, the Toronto Star ran an article that captured their aggravation with their inability to obtain a liquor license for a small, sophisticated French bistro called ICI. Now, close to three months later, they haven't made any progress and are considering pulling the plug altogether.
"I can't say for sure that we'll stay," sighs Decourte. "If you had asked me a few weeks ago, I would've told you we'd keep fighting until we could get open, but now I just don't know. All we've been able to do is wait for the process to continue, but my partners and I have to decide how much longer we're willing to wait."
It would have been impossible to predict ICI having these kinds of problems. Having earlier held down the kitchen at The Windsor Arms, Le Select Bistro, and Auberge du Pommier, J.P. Challet, is one of the most respected veteran French cooks in Toronto, the venue only has a capacity of about 24, and everyone involved is over 50 years old. But the location, at the corner of Harbord Street and Manning Avenue, happens to be located in an area populated by schools, and the space once held an arcade in which an 18-year-old student was stabbed to death by a 15-year-old student.
Seeing a liquor license application hanging in the window, Rodrigo Fuentes, principal at Harbord Collegiate, wrote a letter of opposition to the Alcohol Gaming Commission of Ontario (AGCO) and convinced Clinton Street School principal Wendy Hughes to do the same. Sensing danger, the Palmerston Area Residents Association (PARA) also opposed the license. Since then, PARA have removed their opposition. The school principles, on the other hand, have visited with the partners and expressed confidence that the bistro provides no danger to the neighbourhood, but have yet to retract their letters of opposition.
A place like such as ICI depends on wine sales to drive profit, so opening without a license is out of the question. "The AGCO doesn't care that we have at least 200 names in support. What matters are these few letters of opposition. We need to get open if we want to be able to make any money, but there's no sense of urgency from them," says Decourte. "I guess it's easy to write a letter, but it's hard to stand by your word and have some personal integrity."
A further obstacle comes from Deputy Mayor and city councilor for the area, Joe Pantalone. According to Decourte, Pantalone has "never visited to see what we stand for or what we're all about, but has made it clear that he will oppose us at every junction." Given his predilection for cracking down on nightlife, we don't doubt it. Pantalone made headlines back in may for instituting a surprise one year moratorium on new bars and restaurants on Ossington Avenue. Pantalone claimed that the suddenly hip bar-saturated strip between Queen and Dundas was incompatible with the residential aspect of the neighbourhood, a similar argument that had earlier been taken in Toronto's club district.
Harbord Street, however, is nothing like either Ossington or Richmond Street. The area around Harbord and Spadina is teeming with upscale restaurants and bistros, but the area west of Bathurst, although zoned for the same commercial use, is nearly barren of businesses. Some have asserted that it's a slippery slope – one licensed operation will bring others in kind – but ICI would hardly be a place to attract debauchery or licentious behaviour. "What Pantalone doesn't seem to realize is that having a few coffee shops and bistros would actually be good for the neighbourhood," Decourte continues. "I don't know how you're going to create any sort of culinary tourism or thriving economy if you can't be progressive."
With all this opposition in place, ICI now has two options. They can either wait for the normal appeals process, which will include a full public hearing, or opt for a smaller meeting of just the oppositional parties and get them to unanimously retract their opposition. Either way, it'll be a lengthy process and the partners are losing money with every moment wasted. All this for a tiny neighbourhood bistro.
18 Reader Reviews
This is just so ridiculous!
Come to Leslieville ICI Bistro - we'd welcome you with open arms.
1. Karen's Review:: September 08, 2009
Karen's Rating: 4 Stars
I've taking cooking classes with Chef Challet. He is a pleasure to learn from and it is a pleasure to experience eating his food. I'm tired of experiencing the "what if..." "what if..." attitude in Toronto. They need to stop worrying about what if the cafe pulls out and embrace the fact that a quality Chef even wants to work in their neck of the woods. Please, Chef Challet open your restaurant in Davisville!
2. Lauren Walker's Review:: September 05, 2009
Lauren Walker's Rating: 3 Stars
Anne Popoff: I live footsteps from this restaurant. There is indeed much local support for this restaurant, and my neighbours and I are fighting hard to help this restaurant get established. Most of the 200+ names of support on the Ici petition are from the immediate neighbourhood.
As someone who was mugged on my own street in broad daylight, I treat neighbourhood safety with deadly seriousness, and that is why it is essential that Ici be given the tools it needs to succeed. We need a restaurant like Ici to put responsible adult eyes back on a street that has been dominated too long by graffiti-strewn teen hangouts and empty storefronts. This neighbourhood will never become safe under Councillor Joe Pantalone's policy of stagnancy.
If Ici is unable to open, the most likely successor will be a Pizza Pizza or another teen hangout, and the perpetuation of the unsafe and unacceptable status quo that saw a student knifed to death at the Ici location ten years ago. My neighbours and I would ask Councillor Pantalone how he could possibly support this, but he refuses to meet with any of us.
Thanks for publishing this article!
3. John Bowker's Review:: August 27, 2009
John Bowker's Rating: 4 Stars
Anne Popoff: I live footsteps from this restaurant. There is indeed much local support for this restaurant, and my neighbours and I are fighting hard to help this restaurant get established. Most of the 200+ names of support on the Ici petition are from the immediate neighbourhood.
As someone who was mugged on my own street in broad daylight, I treat neighbourhood safety with deadly seriousness, and that is why it is essential that Ici be given the tools it needs to succeed. We need a restaurant like Ici to put responsible adult eyes back on a street that has been dominated too long by graffiti-strewn teen hangouts and empty storefronts. This neighbourhood will never become safe under Councillor Joe Pantalone's policy of stagnancy.
If Ici is unable to open, the most likely successor will be a Pizza Pizza or another teen hangout, and the perpetuation of the unsafe and unacceptable status quo that saw a student knifed to death at the Ici location ten years ago. My neighbours and I would ask Councillor Pantalone how he could possibly support this, but he refuses to meet with any of us.
Thanks for publishing this article!
4. John Bowker's Review:: August 27, 2009
John Bowker's Rating: 4 Stars
Mr Pantalone is almost always in the lobby of the CHIN building on College St. Saturday mornings/early afternoon go and see if you can speak with him there the more people you bring the better Ambush if you will. I live 100 feet away from the location and think ICI is what is needed in the area not the place across the street that used to be called Aftermath they were turned down recently for a liquor license but i supported that denial.
5. David's Review:: August 27, 2009
David's Rating: Stars
I thought Ici was the old Aftermath space - but then I could be mistaken. Nonetheless, I agree. A quality little cafe would be brilliant for this stretch. And it's not exactly overkill.
6. James Kelly's Review:: August 27, 2009
James Kelly's Rating: 4 Stars
RE: James Kelly
James the Aftermath space is across the street from ICI
ICI is on the North West corner of Manning and Harbord
7. David's Review:: August 27, 2009
David's Rating: Stars
I live close by as well and once attended a meeting by the Palmerston Area Residents Association PARA for short . I could not believe how Anti Business they were. Most seemed like bitter people who have too much time on their hands and since the days of fun and excitement are long gone for them they want to deny it for others as well.
As for Pantalone, i used to really like the guy but over the last two years he has become so negative and combative that i now avoid him on the street.
8. Randolph W's Review:: August 27, 2009
Randolph W's Rating: Stars
hi - i live up the street. my concern is that, if ICI closes, we will be left with another pizza joint. very depressing and not very appealing for the grown ups in the 'hood.
9. Mary Bredin's Review:: August 27, 2009
Mary Bredin's Rating: 4 Stars
What's Mr Pantalone's take on all of this? He's the only one absent from this discussion. Is it him (that's the acting devil) or is it the city?
Just want to be sure we're attacking the right soldier here.
(good angle, otherwise, Richard.)
10. Peter Jamieson's Review:: August 27, 2009
Peter Jamieson's Rating: 4 Stars
You are welcome in Islington Village ... we are looking for French Bistros ... no competition, for now.
11. E H's Review:: August 25, 2009
E H's Rating: Stars
Joe Pantalone is definitely the culprit. He would rather nothing ever change. I don't understand his rationale because he has none. His arguments against restaurants and licensing them are non-existent. Unfortunately he has power for another year. If someone worthwhile opposes him in the next election, maybe then our west-end neighborhoods will see some forward progress. Until then, it's a shame for Ici and other like-minded businesses. Joe Pantalone does not encourage entrepreneurs.
12. Mel's Review:: August 25, 2009
Mel's Rating: Stars
The mayor, the councillor, the AGCO...Toronto is alleged to be an international city yet we can't even open a bistro without some bureaucratic interference. Who are we kidding??
13. David B's Review:: August 25, 2009
David B's Rating: Stars
Just visit any incredible city in the world New York, Paris. London and restaurants, bisros are everywhere. Maybe Joe Pantalone should see what makes other cities so great so Toronto can evolve if we are to become a world class city that we supposedly are. With people like him running our city it is dubious if we can change.
14. Nicholas's Review:: August 25, 2009
Nicholas's Rating: Stars
Joe Pantelone is so afraid of losing votes that he will listen to the voices of a few, not realizing that the people who are opening businesses in his constituency are actually residents/homeowners and taxpayers! Say goodbye to life at the public teat Joey Pants! The people you are screwing now are the people who will not be voting for you in the next election, and there are a lot of us.
15. Cats's Review:: August 25, 2009
Cats's Rating: Stars
Just picked this up on Google News. It's the saddest thing I've ever heard. Does the city think a little bistro is the same as a full-on nightclub?
Unbelievable!
16. Diane James's Review:: August 25, 2009
Diane James's Rating: 4 Stars
I don't get it..since high school students are not allowed by law to drink alcohol in licensed establishements until they are 19- where is the problem? Temptation cannot be one since the kids won't be served, so why make such a fuss? And you forgot to mention that JP was also the executive chef at The Fifth in your list of his credentials. This city is beyond backwards and puritan -we need more bistros and fine food. Can you imagine anyone in NYC or Paris protesting like that? This is what keeps Toronto from actually becoming the 'World Class City' it claims to be.
17. Anne Popoff's Review:: August 25, 2009
Anne Popoff's Rating: 4 Stars
This is just a true indication of how backwards Joe Pantalone is. We have plenty of nice bistros in very residential neighbourhoods in this city. For Mr. Pantalone to oppose this one is simply vindictive.
I keep an eye on this situation on my blog and haven't seen anything on the neighbhourhood residents' association website, probably because there isn't much support among the neighbourhood.