Page 1 of 5
E

conomic woes or not, people insisted on eating throughout 2008. Like breathing and sleeping, noshing continued unabated, regardless of the financial climate. That said, as stocks fell restaurant debuts quelled their ambitiousness. Still, the annum saw a variety of marquee openings, a host of novel fusions, and a surfeit of worthy new gems. Celebrity chefs opened up new ventures and newcomers unveiled welcome epicurean surprises. Here's a look at 2008's Essential Restaurants. When you're done here, be sure to read your own words on the subject-
Restaurants 2008

Boneta, Vancouver
Vancouver Magazine's 2006 bartender of the year, Mark Brand (after whose mom the resto is named), Neil Ingram (formerly of
Lumière,) and Andre McGillivray (also of Lumière,
Chambar, and
Le Crocodile) have created a sophisticated restaurant with style to spare. Chef Jeremie Bastien is a veteran on the international restaurant scene, having served as a sous chef at Lumière, junior sous at Boulevard (one of San Francisco's finest), and a cook in a Michelin-starred restaurant in Burgundy. On a single menu, his inventive and exciting cuisine fuses the flavours of France, Italy, and Japan. Be sure to try his pleasant coq au vin with porcini powder gnocchi, boar bacon lardoons, king oyster mushrooms, and pearl onions glazed with Marcella wine. One bite and you'll understand how the chef has accomplished so much at such a young age. 1 West Cordova, Vancouver, BC, 604-684-1844
…Full Story

Buvette Chez Simone , Montreal
This spring, local food and wine lovers, myself included, were thrilled by the opening of this Mile End gem. Created by a ragtag cabal of five wine-obsessed buddies (including Michel Bergeron of Bergerons Les Vins and Fabien Lacaille from Bily Kun), Buvette Chez Simone quickly became the go-to spot for in-the-know Montreal wine-lovers. When it comes to food, Simone (I love that name) has a roster of worthy options. Though the fare is there to compliment the wine (like Scott Mosier to Kevin Smith), it's not an afterthought. The most obvious and commonly ordered choices include small plates of smoked calamari, cheeses, and salad dishes. 4869 Park Avenue, 514-750-6577.
…Full Story

La Cantine, Montreal
La Cantine's lowbrow/highbrow dynamic fills a space that screams 70's bachelor pad, complete with great drinks, fresh original fare, and splendid little mini pogos. Doling out left-field offerings, such as Foie Gras Shooters served over biscotti, Coq au Vin, and Linguini Kraft Dinner, this is the kind of spot has a marked brio. The staff is friendly, the décor is over-the-top '70s zaniness, and the cinq à sept cocktail hour is busy yet not mobbed. 4869 Parc Avenue, Montreal, QC, 514-750-6577
…Full Story

Chef's Table, Calgary
What sets Chef's Table apart from other Calgary-area hotel restaurants -- or, indeed, other Calgary restaurants -- is the seven-course tasting menu. Executive Chef Theo Yeaman's resume includes more than one stint at a Michelin-starred restaurant and he's put this experience to good use in Calgary. The current tasting menu (it changes every so often) features a host of finds like gala apple and turnip veloute with candied walnuts and apple brunoise and hand-shucked Queen Charlotte Island scallops with blood orange, edamame and olive oil. More substantial choices include roasted Alaskan sablefish with parsley puree and Sous Vide Ewenique Farms lamb saddle. For the less adventurous (or less hungry), the à la carte menu is nothing to look down on. 1126 Memorial Drive N.W., Calgary, 403-228-4442
…Full Story

Los Clásicos, Montreal
Focusing on Mexico City-style dishes, Los Clásicos has a been-there-forever charm, a monstrous, six-page menu, and stellar homemade quesadillas. It also has a fabulous breakfast menu, including the classic huevos rancheros. (As any dedicated Mexican-food eater knows, nothing beats a good huevos rancheros.) We can't move on without mentioning the fresh watermelon juice, which is so good it's possible to close your eyes and pretend that the sound of St Laurent traffic is really waves crashing on the shore of the Sea of Cortez (that's an impressive feat of Mesmer proportions). Los Clasicos, 4561 St. Laurent Blvd., Montreal, QC, 514-286-6999. Licensed.
…Full Story

DB Bistro Moderne, Vancouver
Perhaps Vancouver's most highly anticipated restaurant opening of the year, famed chef, Daniel Boulud imported this concept from New York; fortunately, it translates well. Executive Chef, Stephane Istel, interprets French dishes using BC's freshest ingredients. The card includes the famous Original DB Burger: a top sirloin burger filled with braised short ribs and black truffle, served on a toasted parmesan bun with pommes frittes on the side. Also highly recommended, the Dungeness Crab with a mango, cucumber, and lime-curry dressing offers a whack of freshness and a refreshing hint of spice. 2563 West Broadway Vancouver, BC, 604-739-7115
…Full Story

DNA, Montreal
Interpret the name however you want, though you might be slightly disappointed; it stems from the partnership of Executive Chef, Derek Dammann and managing owner, Alex Crus (i.e. Derek 'n' Alex). While Mediterranean flavours derive from old-world traditions, they are infused with decidedly Canadian flourishes. The kitchen keeps things fresh by judiciously choosing from specific microclimates. For instance, Dammann scores his olive oil from a friend in Tuscany. Mains include Braised Beef Cheek and scallop or Grilled Leg of Kamouraska Lamb, served with pumpkin caponata, turriga, parsley, and almond salsa. Unpretentious, savvy, detail-obsessed, and deliciously traditional it's a gem. 355 rue Marguerite D'Youville, Montreal, QC, 514-287-3362
…Full Story