hat's new in our so called "Cocktail Nation" is what's not new! Old classic cocktails such as the Classic Martini, Vodkatini, and the dirty martini are becoming standards once again.

The Martini, always a popular cocktail has soared to popularity with Vodka being the spirit of choice. Served freezing cold, flavored Vodkas with new twists make "Cocktailing in the 90's" a Vodka sensation. Signature Martinis are the rage. Top establishments now offer a Martini menu and even tableside preparation. Chains have gotten into the swing of it too (a certain Toronto franchise calls their selection "Fun-tinis").

Mixers, juices, purees, syrups: cocktail ingredients come in an increasing variety of forms and flavours. So, how do you choose which works best for your operation? The first question a new bar should ask itself is: What drinks does it want to be famous for? Is it going to be a Martini bar? Feature frozen drinks? Or is it going to be a nightclub kind of place and serve everything? Then, go looking for the ingredients -- including the mixers and juices -- needed to make those reputation-building drinks.

There are practical considerations as well, of course. At nightclubs like Lucid, Tonic and Fluid, volume is so high and storage so limited that options available to most operations are out of the question. The busiest service bars, that produce drinks served in plastic cups for patrons on their gaming floor, keeps servers and bartenders hopping. And most of those bars, don't have much storage, which must be kept in mind when choosing a Bloody Mary mix, for example, or frozen mixes, both of which require refrigeration during the day.

On the other end of the spectrum, the considerations are different. Roof Lounge, often named as having the best martinis in town, prides itself on having a three-star bar -- and charges accordingly. "We charge $20 per drink, so you're going to get a $20 drink," says a bartender on a recent visit. To live up to its reputation, Roof Top must make careful bar-business decisions. So cost considerations, such as the price of the ingredients or the extra labor involved - bartenders arrive at 2 p.m. to prepare fruit purees for the evening's business - are different from those of a more standard restaurant.

When it comes to spirits, the key trends have been an increased consumer interest in quality and brand recognition. Those trends seem to be spilling over to mixers and other non-alcohol ingredients. Mott's, for example, introduced a new version of its Mr. & Mrs. T Bloody Mary mix Premium Blend, in February. Mott's has also just introduced Rose's Cocktail Infusions, extensions of the best-known brand of prepared limejuice. Rose's Cocktail Infusions come in three flavours: Cosmo, Sour Apple and Blue Raspberry.
Other major mix brands sell themselves as quality products. Daily's touts that its products are made with real fruit puree and juice. So does the fast growing Island Oasis, whose frozen products contain no preservatives, artificial colours.

The major advantages of using a mix over making a drink from scratch, say mix suppliers, are efficiency, reduced waste (and hence, less cost) and consistency. Sounds really good - fresh juices all the time, but when crunch time comes and you're out of product, what are you going to do?

While they have long been used in Europe, syrups are a relatively new addition to the bartender's arsenal in American markets. One advantage of using nonalcoholic syrup over flavoured schnapps in cocktails is the ability to lower the alcohol level. They can also be used in states whose laws make it difficult or impractical to obtain flavoured spirit products.

Concentrated syrups are best used when flavours already present in the drink need a boost. Syrups can also be used to intensify drink flavours, especially those made with flavoured rum or vodka. Flavoured spirits smell terrific, but may not have enough of a flavour following the aroma. A syrup can round out and complete the drink.

For some cocktails, operators go beyond fruit juice and instead opt for puree made from fruit pulp. Fruit-puree products can be extremely high quality. They were originally intended for use in classic French pastry. However, in the last five to seven years, they’re increasingly used in cocktails.

In fact, the use of purees in cocktails is the fastest growing segment of the company's business, she reports. Some of the most popular cocktail-ingredient products include strawberry and raspberry, but also more exotic ones, such as prickly pear, passion fruit and pomegranate.

Popping up everywhere are theme and cigar bars modeled after the cocktail lounges of the '20s and '30s. Bartenders must learn the "Toronto Muddle" where all ingredients, including ice, are placed in the shaker, hand placed over the top and the muddler bashes the heck out of the drink. Atmosphere and showmanship are top priority and the new trend to drink better, not more, may be here to stay. - B.J.