ome restaurants really do make you feel like you're walking into another world, and at Renda Abdo's Charles Street boîte, Wish, that feeling is channeled to South Beach. At Yonge and Charles, no doubt.

Puffy banquettes with oversize white pillows and clear plastic chairs and metallic tables make for flamboyant patio furniture take up much of a front patio. A fountain centrepiece sets the vibe, accented by the exhaust fumes of passing UPS trucks.

The interior has been updated with a cool blend of white-washed flooring and rustic woods. Along with the bench-lined walls, the unfailingly exuberant mood of the crowd that fills the room, and the welcoming attitude of the staff, this little spot makes you feel like you're leaving one universe and entering another.

You can dine conventionally at Wish, but I don't think many do; it's too enjoyable just browsing your way round the wide-ranging menu, nibbling this, drinking that, mixing and pairing plates with colourful drinks from the remarkably well-stocked bar. Take the Ontario pork tenderloin medallions ($23) for instance. The plate arrives with a fresh black bean and rice tart and a green molé sauce - tart, sweet, and savory. Also enjoyable is the chicken supreme ($22) stuffed with wild mushrooms and basil, served with sautéed rapini and Dijon cream sauce; this hearty beast turned out to be a wonderment of flavourful counterpoints.

The medallion of organic salmon with lobster with lemongrass wonton ($24), heavily laden with sautéed kale and three sauces - ginger soy reduction, lemon dill aioli, coriander pesto - features a sweet, richly satisfying backbeat. Likewise are the 16oz T-bone of beef ($28) with tender French beans, caramelized shallots and a green peppercorn sauce. An 8oz filet of beef ($29) comes with whipped russet potatoes, wilted spinach and red wine sauce.