The daily special, Spaghettini King Crab ($22.95), pairs fresh crustacean legs with a subtly spicy "Diablo" sauce. Other pasta options include the Tagliatelle con Gamberi ($14.95), Spaghettini alle vongole ($13.00) with fresh baby clams and the Penne con la Salsiccia $10.50) with sausage.

Our Zuppa di Pesce ($29.95) arrives in a cast iron skillet with mounds of shrimp, mussels and calamari surrounding a brilliant half lobster. The linguini beneath swims in a marinara sauce studded with entire cloves of garlic that have been stewed into bite-size candies. The slight density of the lobster is outweighed by its buttery sweetness.

Desserts, if there is room, are highlighted by a tart Lemon Tart ($8.95) with a hint of coconut adding texture and balance. The Tiramisu ($7.95) is light enough, adorned with fresh blueberries and strawberry slivers.

Sadly, the building that houses Vittorio's is slated to be demolished, giving way to more eyesore condos. The good news: you still have three years to take advantage of the great cooking and convivial atmosphere (and the occasional glimpse of Vittorio’s ghost). Even better, a new Vittorio's has opened on the site of the original, and Cico is eager to expand.
-D.R.