n a restaurant saga fit for a Food TV pilot, thus goes the story of Vittiorio’s. Located at Avenue Road and Dupont, the restaurant was legendary for not only its food, but for the oversized personality of Vittorio himself of whom the restaurant was eponymously named after. For quality control, the vivacious Vittorio was known to carry his own fork from table to table, to test diners' plates – a practice that was somewhat disturbing for amateur diners, but accepted nonetheless.

When his lust for life, with its attendant excesses and expenses (and perhaps risqué quality control methods), led to the large restaurant closing, Vittorio rebounded with a considerably more intimate reincarnation in a ramshackle row of shops and apartments on Yonge, just north of Davisville. Sadly, all good things must come to an end, which was signaled when Vittorio passed away.

Before long, Vittorio's right-hand man and surrogate son Cico, purchased the remains (of the restaurant, NOT Vittorio himself because that’s just twisted) and re-opened the Vittorio's space. Starting out slowly, word of mouth eventually lured the crowds and the little space bustles once again. Of course here is where Food TV’s Post Production department would cue the requisite sappy violin music (with a triumphant twist) and minimum one shot of joyous tears for the dramatic effect in the pilot saga.

While Vittorio carried his gastronomic knowledge and recipes in his head, Cico watched and perfected the art of pleasing the paying customer while employing his own innate intuition. When the room starts to fill, Cico comes to life; the man is everywhere at once (I’m truly amazed at the marvels of cloning). Gracious to a fault, a tiniest delay in receiving extra spoons (to share desserts) is apologized for earnestly. Everyone's best friend, he oversees the proceedings, stepping in when needed and attending to everyone, regular or newcomer. Vittorio would be as proud of his protégé's performance as he would of the plates.

Dependent on market offerings, Vittorio's features a constantly rotating menu, utilizing the available ingredients with seasonal offerings announced on the chalkboard. Study that board - while munching on the warm, herb-crusted bread a server placed before you – as it will be your new best friend. If you're lucky, it might boast the Melanzane il Parmigiano ($10.00), an intermittent appetizer item; tender eggplant melds with thick tomato and cheese sauce, in a fine rendition of the Neapolitan dish.