he current aesthetic of Toronto restaurant design suggests that a certain number of its architects might spend more than a little time perusing Dwell Magazine. Many interiors resonate with dark woods, leather and iron that surfaces oozing water. Vertical, on the mezzanine level of the First Canadian Place, takes a page from a different book, cleverly disguised as the kind of place where one might see co-workers consorting with supermodels.

The spacious, wood-floored main dining room feels contemporary but not aggressively so, with shiny surfaces, warm woods and big wrap-around windows. With seating for 70, the space is dominated by plush seating and rich colours. Two private dining rooms are glassed in, and a separate lounge features a 40-foot sandstone bar top.

Chef Vito Clemente, who first came to prominence as sous chef at Zucca Trattoria, exhibits enough skill and exerts enough charm to stand out in Vertical’s sizable crowd. And yet has drawn up a dinner menu that reads a tad formulaic, making some concessions to the unadventurous. However, the emphasis is on seasonal selections, getting full treatment on the menu.

Appetizers include a ubiquitous pairing of bosc pears and shaved parmigiano in a radicchio salad ($12). Under the heading of pasta there are, for good and safe measure, a black & white seafood ravioli ($13), and main courses dutifully encompass braised lamb shank ($24), poached grouper ($22) and a Sicilian steak ($32).

The black-cod fritters with raisons and pine nuts remain a solid starter, with the added dose of red onion salsa. The pasta dishes include a few unusually clever and satisfying ones, in appetizer and entrée portions. As good as the appetizers are, don't rush the entrées, especially the seared Ahi Tuna loin and served with a tame caponata. ($30); you get an unusually large section, delivering firm texture and striking sea taste.