hen one conjures up an image of any one of the hotels in the Marriott line the image is often of a mediocre, run-of-the-mill hotel chain where a guest can get a good night’s sleep without too much fuss for a decent price. It’s time to squash that old image. The Eaton Centre Marriott is one of the chains busiest and is therefore being used as the flagship venture for the chain’s new look. The results are innovative and impressive, to put it lightly.

Upon entering the Bay Street Marriot, guests are immediately greeted by one of the best looking lobbies this side of Montreal’s W Hotel. The effect is enhanced by the thirty-plus foot ceilings and the central aluminum fireplace that reaches as high. Through the lobby and into the Trios Bistro guests have a stunning view of the sky, grand local high-rises and the intricate stained glass windows of the adjacent church that have been backlit to compliment the bistro’s view. V.I.P. areas are cordoned off by silk string screens that allow for minimal privacy, but look fabulous. The whole eatery is wheelchair accessible and completes a total change of face from day to night. A continental breakfast is served up in the morning with a freshly made omelet buffet and free internet access. During the evening the Trios takes on a classier façade complete with a fine-dining menu and expert cocktail list.

On my visit to Trios, my guest and I tried everything on the menu we could. The stand out item was the Fois Gras Monte Carlo: a butter-soaked grilled cheese stuffed with pancetta and foie gras. I would be so bold as to say this gem belongs among the top ten best things I’ve ever tasted. We also tried the self-proclaimed “Best Crab Cakes in Toronto” which were alright but did not live up to their reputation. They were fresh, juicy and served with spiced mayo and sprouts. They were just the usual bland crab cake - nothing too special.

The mussels on the other hand, were a rare event. The executive chef, Morgan Wilson, ships in the only truly indigenous mussels farmed in Canada from his hometown in Vancouver. They are called B.C. honey mussels (referring to the colour of the shell) and they were the plumpest mussels I’ve ever had. Wilson served them up in a simple tomato soffrito with truffle fries and avocado aioli for dipping. Next up was a huge buttery pan-fried scallop on a bed of oxtail ragout with a side of turnip. It was a tasty foray between the appetizers and the main course.

I delved into my barbequed spare ribs main wholeheartedly. Mixed in with cabbage leaves wrapped in mashed potato and caramelized carrots, every bite seemed to simply melt away on my pleased palette. My guest had opted for the duck leg option which tasted as if the chef had accidentally dumped a few cups of salt into the pot. I was glad to have my spare ribs.