his little cantina is one of those rare eateries that defies easy categorization, and not just because the restaurant continues to evolve months after its opening. Some of the restaurant's idiosyncrasies can be explained by its location, though Torito is anything but a typical Kensington Market café (if there is such a thing).

The setting is modest but crisply appointed: exposed brick walls, local artwork and elegant olive oil and piquillo peppers methodically lined up on display. The bucolic picnic table seating arrangements are, more often than not, full.

Chef Carlos Hernandez’s menu starts off slowly with the likes of octopus terrine, white bass ceviche and a smooth chestnut and chorizo soup. Mains are more interesting, offering options like the well-seasoned Chilean tripe stew and a rustic braised beef cheek. For a lighter appetite or a quick bite, the roasted quail is thoughtfully brushed with pomegranate molasses and served with sweet mashed squash. The shrimp al ajillo - the kind of dish that takes patience and care to put together – is tricked up with tempered garlic and served with garlic toast. But not everything relies on those big blasts of flavor: a trio of vivid red Spanish piquillo peppers stuffed with smooth whipped salted cod and artfully arranged around a kaleidoscope of black olive sauce is among the more memorable dishes I've had so far this year. -D.E.