hat happens when you take a decade-old neighbourhood staple renowned for its decidedly individual décor and high-quality food, and put it in the hands of new owners? Apparently – other than a mild name change - not much. At least, such is the case of Toast on Queen (formerly Hello Toast); Leslieville’s much-loved breakfast nook whose recent transition from clever designation to shortened moniker altered only the logo on the front of the menus.

Explained as a “change in ownership,” by the restaurant’s staff (which, yes, remain the same), one has to wonder whether competition from similarly titled brunch spots could possibly be to blame.

Fortunately, this also means that everything there was to love about the restaurant is maintained, from the Raggedy Ann and Andy dolls on the washroom doors to the antique toaster collection signed by celebrities of varied distinction. Motifs of painted mini-toasters still dot the ceiling like glow-in-the-dark stars, and the eclectic collection of tables and chairs (if you’re not lucky enough to snag the back area’s padded banquettes) retain the atmosphere of the family home, circa 1973. The Bee Gees soundtrack certainly doesn’t hinder the time warp.

Plagued by waiting time woes throughout its existence, Toast’s meals take their sweet time coming, but proffer a veritable bounty of weekend morning goodness. Eggs Benny (regular or with smoked salmon, $11.95) come resting on English muffins, amid a tangle of greens and exceptional hash browns, while sandwich-sized French Toast ($10.95) is given a twist with a cranberry cream cheese stuffing. The healthy option (homemade granola and yogurt parfait, $6.95) arrives layered in a spectacularly tall glass better suited to milkshakes, but the height is to the detriment of the meal when you discover that combining the mixture is easier described than done.

For all its bohemian veneer, Toast’s prices run higher than your average breakfast joint, even going so far as to nickel and dime patrons for a request for maple syrup. That doesn’t stop the crowds from streaming in, however. So unless big changes are underway that have yet to be revealed, be prepared to cool your heels by the retractable garage door cum front window that opens up this homey spot to Queen Street East. – R.Z.