he Spoke Club, spearheaded by Galen Jr. and Alannah Weston, is a hard entrance supper club for the common folk. Here the supper club DNA is as exclusive as it gets, wherein the privileged few are meant to feel all warm and guard dog satisfied with the resolution to keep an emotional distance from the child-like fun of the commoners so close by.

Truth of the matter is, these days almost anyone can step up to the self-proclaimed impossible-to-join members list. Even as a guest, the trip is a worthy one. The warehouse-y look and feel is accented with a few cocktail bar areas, slick furnishings and three floors of Brazilian hardwood flavour.

Chef Paul Boehmer’s precisely edited menu is sprinkled with treats playfully hiding amid many lackluster dishes. The Grain Fed Black Angus New York Steak ($25) is delicately seared, but it's the Rosemary Shallot Jus that turns the dish into a star, arriving with Yukon Gold Fries. A superb Creemore Beer Batter and a side of Mashed Green Peas enhance the rustic, earthy quality of otherwise plain English-Style Halibut and Chips ($16). Hot Smoked Paprika Chicken ($18) would make a breezy meal on its own. Adding with Crushed New Potatoes and Scallions, Lemon Thyme Jus to it is like putting a diamond at the bottom of a glass of champagne: a nice complement.

The handsome private club has a modern, casual sensibility, but it can be cramped and noisy when full. In warm weather, the outdoor tables are prime spots. - S.W.