On tap are Wellington’s, Red Leaf and Steam Whistle, but I get the impression that most regulars go the wine route. While The Cobourg doesn’t offer a house wine, the list does provide a reasonably diverse selection of international vintages, most of which are available by glass or bottle. But be warned: the wine is especially pricey. (I watched as one guest double-checked his bill, remarking that the wine was expensive, and all Lena could say was: "Yeah.")

This isn’t the sort of place I’d want to set up camp for an entire evening. It seems perfectly suited for a few cocktails and some pâté or a cheese board before heading elsewhere for dinner, or as a place to wind down before heading home. So it’s not perfect, but it does bring a lot to the table. A real hidden gem, The Cobourg delivers an atmosphere to Cabbagetown that’s been missing for some time. With the exception of The House On Parliament St. (456 Parliament Street), locals generally don’t service the area; I think the Jays are trying to change that.

Lena tells me the inspiration for the bar - the painting - doubles as insurance. If it comes to it and the bar flops, the Jays can sell their wedding gift and recoup. But I genuinely hope that they succeed. This is just the sort of underdog I like to root for: a neighbourhood bar with a touch of class. What with the soft opening and inconspicuous façade, they really will have to work hard now to make their mark. -D.M.