It’s interesting to note that the pizzas at Terroni are still served un-cut, which differs from the majority of Italian restaurants around town. Is that chef hubris or some kind of personalization thing? We may never know the answer, but be sure to keep the fork and knife ready for the action.

Mains at Terroni are plentiful as well, and oak-fired flavours take precedence. Entrées such as a Parmigiano reggiano shavings on grilled beef tenderloin, fried dandelion with beef tenderloin and southern Italian veal sausage with polenta (read, cornmeal) and rapini point to an effort to dress up these beef-centric plates beyond the norm.

Part of the appeal of the place is the perceived dedication to service, with surprisingly hip, young'ns in T-shirts running the place. Indeed, I found the service refreshingly fun and professional; it was present when needed and invisible when not. Since those days, a lot has changed; grunge has gone out of style and the Terroni brand has managed to polish its’ image as well. The Italian eatery expanded to include restaurants on Victoria Street, One Balmoral Avenue, as well as a Los Angeles location in trendy West Hollywood.

Mammoliti was only 26 when he opened his first Terroni restaurant, so it makes sense that he realizes the benefits that come with fresh, unmarred talent. Back in 1992, when Terroni was first opened on Queen Street West, it offered not much more than stuffed paninis and good coffee – but this was clearly enough to keep area dwellers coming back.

Terroni has proven that high-quality ingredients and careful attention to detail are truly important, and has acted as a testament to the evolution of simple Italian tastes. Food like this was simply not found in these parts a few years ago, and now it's simply creative casual. The Adelaide Street location is effortlessly clever and could prove to be the Terroni hero.