Sweet, somewhat romantic, and not outrageously expensive, Kensington Kitchen (KK) was always a little hidden gem. With KK now gone (R.I.P.), the rickety space on Harbord Street now houses yet another semi-secret jewel. Retaining all of KK's attributes, Tati Bistro is more of an update than an overhaul.

Tati is a French bistro of the highest order, with a healthy wine list, a charming owner, a skilled and attentive chef, and an uncommon and impressive sensibility. As sad as it was to see KK disappear from the scene, co-owner and Chef, Laurent Brion (Executive Chef at Teatro from 2001 - 2005) has managed to whip the familiar space back into good health while creating a signature menu to showcase his take on classic French bistro fare.

In a world where A-list chefs comfortably play with their pet themes of signature plates, doling out an endless parade of culinary artistry, it's impressive to see the understated simplicity that Brion works with. It's worth noting that Brion, who hails from France, was last making headlines with his own gastronomic tendencies at the ill-fated 8 Restolounge. While the 8 space has now resurfaced as Jacobs & Co, a high-end steakhouse, Brion has brought his Tati to life to feature French classics.

He gets down to business with a small but effective menu. The starters are traditional French fare, the best of the lot being the escargot ($8) doused in roast garlic butter and ringed by a wild mushroom fricassee. The Beef Carpaccio ($14), plated with arugula and parmesan, tasted much better than it looked (a shade too brown). The Jumbo Shrimp had great flavour, but ultimately drowned in its accompanying garlic butter. For mains, the Filet Mignon (the most expensive item on the menu at $32) was accompanied by a zesty béarnaise sauce, a generous pile of frites (as we had requested), and a side of grilled vegetables (the kitchen's favourite finishing touch). Teatro diners will remember that Brion likes to add vegetables to anything and everything: not just a mere garnish, but a generous mix of green beans with roasted garlic, grilled zucchini, and crisp (yet cooked) carrots. The New York Steak was a better beef bet: a fork-tender piece of meat nicely complemented by a maitre d'hotel butter and a generous serving of supremely crisp frites. Looking regal as it nested with a rather tasteless flash-fried shallot sauce, the herb-roasted chicken, especially the juicy white-meat portion, was downright succulent. Its side of tasty oven-dried tomatoes was a welcome treat. The braised lamb shank tasted curiously bland, although it was certainly a good cut, surrounded by a medley of roasted vegetables. Across the menu, portions are ample, especially in view of the pricing. Many entrées were under $20. Even the rack of lamb was reasonable at $28.00.

The look of the bistro is still very KK-ish, which means, for lack of a better word, cute. The burgundy façade and crisp, old-fashioned vibe creates a refreshing and clean atmosphere for dining in romance and comfort. You need both elements to really bring the dining experience up a notch, and that’s exactly what Brion did with the Kensington Kitchen carcass. Tati is definitely a spot to keep an eye on; it's an ambitious endeavor that has the potential to evolve into a fully realized restaurant. -D.E.