Moving on to the list of mains, which is relatively short. Not surprising, as we are in the chef's seat. With some notable exceptions, the menu reads safe and uneventful: swordfish with sun-dried tomato pesto, Jumbo prawns & scallops, and an eight-oz Bison rib-eye served with a glazed shallot & cherry brandy jus.

For our 8 oz Provimi veal tenderloin and 10 oz Certified Angus Beef strip loin, hot rocks and raw meats arrive, and our daunting task is underway. A Madagascar peppercorn sauce added sparkle to the naturally bland tenderloin. For grilling, the meat is best cut into strips. Likewise with the New Zealand rack of lamb ($25.00) and the Angus Beef tenderloin ($29.00). The prawns & scallops are fairly salty but deliver good chewy texture. Next time, though, I'd pass on the shrimp, which were short on flavour – even with the dill beurre blanc - and tricky to grill without overcooking.

It’s no gastronomic epiphany, just a very well-cooked and gratifying plate of food. And, as for the restaurant space, it's a has remarkable transformation from the boozery that it once was. The noise level can drown out conversation but doesn’t seem to darken the conviviality. Nor does the sometimes ragged waitstaff, seemingly disorganized one night, but much smoother on a later visit. And Kudos for the fine lounge area, which has been re-visited often since.