But here it is. By partnering with Kenyan chef David Ng’ang’a (who worked at Irie Food Joint where Couillard was guest chef), the two have taken over the space that was once The Hazelton Café (another '80s spot).

Manyata Courtyard Café seats 150 people, but a little deeper in is Couillard’s little Spice Room. Dropping all theatricality, the 40-seat space is high-African, mixing polished floors with deep, rich colours. Though it may have the impersonal appearance of an antihip, dimly lighted hotel restaurant, with servers efficiently dashing dishes to and from the kitchen, the Spice Room is best enjoyed as a fascinating evening of total submission. Don't come here just to revel in pre-theatre or post-shopping, but to swoon over dishes that celebrate bold spices from Morocco, India and Indochina.

Couillard has re-examined his palette, this time beefing his usage of spices up to eerie levels of hotness. But he knows his stuff. Who knew, for example, that as unlikely a pairing as chili, kaffir lime and lemongrass could further fuel a succulent Lobster & Seafood Bisque? (Or that a cream-based soup could set you back a whopping $16.00?)

In his fiery quest, Couillard has come up with a menu that is surprisingly small, with six appetizers and four mains, with flavours that are set by top-quality spices and sauces that have a larger role than mere accents. Those who aren’t into very spicy food need not apply, that much I recall from the plump breast of young chicken ($34.00), marinated in yogurt with cardamom, garlic and green chili.