he door to Sopra Upper Lounge is subtly marked by graceful script and the dim, red-hued lighting sets an illicit, boîte mood. As the host bounds up the stairs we slowly, carefully follow; I stumble slightly: the mood lighting renders the steps a little difficult to navigate. Safely reaching the landing, the room opens up and a welcoming staff member immediately offers to take our coats. The room’s cozy vibe has dispelled any chill remaining from the icy weather outside.

To the right sits a smaller room that, judging from the pile of brightly wrapped presents, hosts a birthday party. The space, illuminated and warmed by a large fireplace, has a long bar to the left and rows of tables dotting the floor. A small stage abuts the back wall, and the furniture throughout the room is arranged with special consideration given to sightlines. The striped Zebrawood veneer and subtle tropme d’oeil patterns that cover the wall cause the room to appear spacious, while retaining an intimate feel. General Manager Vince Sposito greets us effusively, his Sopra pride obvious and his friendly eagerness accommodating.

The menu, a modern riff on tapas, has an Earth (meat), Sea (seafood), Land (vegetables) and Sweet Things (sweet things) theme; the food is meant to be shared, so wash your hands. Sposito recommends starting in the sea and then coming ashore. We follow his advice and begin with Lobster Rolls ($16) and Roasted Scallops ($14). The lobster, rolled in rice with bits of mango and coated in a light tempura, is fried to a delectable crisp. The scallops arrive wrapped in pancetta, lightly seared and resting plumply on orange slices and dollops of pomegranate. The ancillary elements, designed to accentuate the seafood, meld and complement, providing a twist on the vaguely familiar.

On land we sample the Mini-Burger with matchstick fries ($15). It looks tiny, almost too cute, but packs a muscular, beefy bite. Somehow the careful layering of foie gras, caramelized onions, mushrooms and what appears to be a sliver of apple, enhance the meat’s flavour. With the addition of Cauliflower Popcorn ($7), crunchy florets with a spicy lime and chili dipping sauce, and succulent Sweet Potato Ravioli ($8), we have managed to have an entirely satisfying, main-free meal (entrees are so passé).