he just-opened Sin & Redemption seems to still be figuring itself out. Just steps away from the Ontario College of Art & Design, the AGO, and the beer-heavy Village Idiot, it would be easy to expect the bar to be a pub-style watering hole. And from outside, that looks like the case. Once you get inside, however, it becomes obvious that the bar is struggling to reach higher than its location should allow.

The big open windows looking out on St. Patrick's Catholic Church are a nice touch (probably where the moniker comes from) and the long maroon banquettes and hardwood walls certainly wouldn't seem out of place at your average pub. But the lighting scheme, which favours electronic candlelight over lighting fixtures, is way too low for a watering hole.

To be fair, Sin & Redemption never claimed to be a pub; it just seems as though it should be. But instead of a place for students to chill out over a pint, it seems better suited to the dating crowd. The bar, as it turns out, is inspired by the French, and after all what's more romantic than the French?

Like the décor, the menu is surprisingly large and surprisingly fancy. Steak Frites shares menu space with Duck Confit, Braised Beef Short Ribs, and Potato Crusted Black Cod. You wouldn't find nachos or chicken wings anywhere near this menu. Even the waiter spoke with a French accent, and I spent the majority of the evening trying to decide whether or not it was real.

The wine list follows suit. The many French selections sit side by side with wines from Chile, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, and Italy. It's a long enough list that it almost overshadows the beer list. I say "almost" because I really was quite impressed. With 32 beers on tap (on tap), the selection is far from limited to Brick Lager. I sampled a beer called Delirium and I was glad I did.