hen Versace’s Driveway opened last year on College Street, many people had little faith in its chances for survival, pointing to its sad attempt at being suave and hedonistic, it's overbearing name and undefined focus. With the area's little pockets of gentrification, the short-lived venue – which despite a great location, attracted little attention - didn't have much in common with its College Street brethren. But the closure of the bar has brought two uptown interlopers to the scene.

With a rocky start and humble aspirations, first-time restaurateurs Bill Sweete and Casey Bee have taken over the abandoned spot for their own definition of the space. Now dubbed Sidecar, the handsome room is all brick and beam aesthetics, highlighted by little dots of candlelight. With a long and narrow dining area that spills out onto a gated front (come summertime), the more refined layout seems closer to the area's new sensibilities.

With Sidecar, the boys have managed to trick up the Italian trattoria cliché, turning it into a hipster bistro that just happens to serve up fresh Italian comfort food. Happily Versace-free, the kitchen doesn't seem to be making any culinary statements. It just wants you to say, "Hey, this is good" as you soak up the Sidecar vibe and the energy of the area.

The menu is lean yet layered; the fare fanciful but accessible and generally well crafted. It's hard to know where to start. But it's easy to know where not to start. That would be the low-value appetizer winter tomato salad. At $12,00, the bufula mozzarella and oven roasted tomatoes don't taste nearly good enough to justify the cost. But the other five appetizer choices are not only attractively priced, but also fantastic. The superb sesame crusted ahi tuna ($14.00) is imaginatively paired with avocado relish and soya citrus dressing. Irresistibly crisp, shrimp tempura ($12.00) come packed with high-intensity bonito dipping sauce.