hile most of the town's hot restaurants will turn you away for misplacing your Bruno Maglis, here is one to dine to the nines on the cheap.

Shanghai Cowgirl is a lighthearted study in all things diner: the whole theme, from the banquettes and seating around the room to the long luncheonette bar, recalls a 1931 diner - Queen Street style. Shanghai’s fresh look reflects its unassuming yet transporting spirit, buoyed by fun-loving waitstaff, dolled up in bright orange T-shirts.

A meal at Shanghai Cowgirl will not dazzle with its variety, but the kitchen makes sure to turn out "old reliable" staples and a modest amount of flair. The shining example among these would have to be the tender pink-centered liver served with rich garlic gravy; piled with caramelized onion; thickly sliced roast beef with creamy spuds and crunchy coleslaw. Also, the Trailer Trash Sushi with grilled moist chicken breast on Portuguese pada, watercress and wasabi-spiked mayo is something else.

But, it is the grilled cheese sandwich that is the Shanghai cash cow. For $4.35 you get a grilled cheese, with your choice of cheddar or processed cheese. Other diner-types render the grilled cheese as a bland, processed thing. Make no mistake, Shanghai’s grilled cheese is a processed thing, it seems to be the wonderbread and the diner staple French fries (or opt for the mashed potatoes) that seems to complete the thing.

And Shanghai churns out solid bacon and eggs all day long, constantly arriving at tables with confident, comfortingly high levels of saturated fat…and a bottomless cup of coffee for a most satisfying first meal of the day.