f you have ever had the fortune of dining in Southern France's culinary Mecca, then you know what kind of quality to demand from a restaurant named Provence. The moniker is more than a tertiary thematic detail or a curious arrogance; it's the key to the beaming soul of this Cabbagetown restaurant.

Provence is an easy restaurant to like. Nestled strategically on one of Cabbagetown's many one-way streets, this Victorian cottage emulates the feel of southern France. Servers hovering over linen-covered tables are hardly fussy or pretentious; in fact, you will be pleasantly surprised by their relaxed attitude and vast knowledge of wines.

Market ingredients and a stellar cellar of vino finish off the package. The Duck Foie Gras Torchon, a pleasant surprise, is silky smooth and creamy. As a born and bred meat lover, I'm constantly in search of the ideal Steak and Frites (is that too much to ask for?) and Provence nearly blew me away. The Flank Mustard Steak, a monstrous, mouthwatering presentation of beef cooked to a moist and tender state, retains its juices; the crispy heap of frites are salted to perfection. The Tuna Steak Frites ($26) are treated with the utmost respect. Other musts include the Chicken Medallions ($19) and the rich, warming, signature Bouillabaisse ($32).

The kitchen's cheese range suggests heightened aspiration. Platters arrive with a selection from mild to wildly strong (i.e. barnyard smelly); true fromage aficionados know how to sniff out a supreme brie or blue cheese. Ask the sommelier for an accompanying glass of port – an essential addition as the sweetness is an excellent accompaniment to the salty cheese.