he most underrated place to open on Queen Street in years, One of a Kind has completely captured the neighborhood, but only the neighborhood.

From the decor -- a mixture of '40s Little Italy lunch counter, retro Asian and classic Mom and Pop -- to the menu of northern Italian comfort food, it spans the gap between family business and a lavender-candle-scented train-wreck of a place, while simultaneously attracting an alarmingly, uniformly cute Queen West clientele.

Enter the raw store front space on Queen near Niagara; push your way past floor-to-ceiling purple velvet drapes and into a heavily polished wood interior, barely holding 26 seats. Owner Raymond To opened One of a Kind in mid 2001, and with manager Angelo Vancheri’s assistance, they succeed in churning out fairly consistent homespun fare in cozy - bordering on garish - surroundings.

One of a Kind feels like the cheaper version of nearby Nonna’s, which is itself the cheaper version of Noce. Here you can have lunch every day (except Sunday which OOAK opens at 4pm)) until 11 p.m. while listening to Nat King Cole. For lunch and dinner, the menu tilts wedges of Brie cheese dipped in herbs and spices and served on a small mixed salad ($7.00); homemade soup of the day (usually mushroom) and the Clam and Conch chowder (both $5.00) are fairly hearty ways to start -- or warm up with the grilled Portobello mushrooms dipped in olive oil, garlic and fresh basil ($7.00).