Style and substance converge at Chef John Lee's resurfaced restaurant on Carlton Street, where the unfortunate Town Grill Bistro used to be located. Lee, you may recall, had closed his original Omi near Church & Wellesley last year, and almost immediately went to work on resurfacing the restaurant on Carlton Street. Alas, the summer came and went, and no Omi.

But here it is – with a familiar menu that has gotten a few fresh interpretations, and a modern dining room that appeals to a crowd that's comfortable stopping in for a fish ceviche and nibbles or a full meal.

The homespun country cottage bistro look-and-feel is has been replaced with a hip, architecturally lit space. The clean design comes by way of the rustic dark woods, polished blonde woods and complementary earth tones. A slick sushi bar glistens with tiles of small, rectangular native stone runs the length of the room; tabletops are created with crosscuts of wood, and polished in polymer. The whole effect is understated Asian: hip, cool, and modern.

Carlton and Parliament may not be the sushi capital of the world — that would be Yorkville - but John Lee has successfully aligned food with décor, in this case a bright room with repeating geometrical shapes cleansed into near sterility.

The sushi menu has a full complement of sushi, sashimi, hand rolls, and tempura, with all of the usual suspects well-represented. The Omi sushi selection ($19.95) changes daily, but on this day the plate is composed of spicy tuna, salmon, yellowtail and soft shell crab. A crunchy exterior yielded to the succulent core, a nice combination of flavours. The Omi sashimi ($19.95) is a plate of white tuna sushi and jumbo shrimp - which has an interior of crunchy crab, masago roe, cucumber, and sprouts. Both are works of art on the plate and both delicious.