ew York Subway does serve subs (I think), but its burritos have made it a neighbourhood institution. Unlike the soup-Nazi-style Burrito Boyz, NYS has a hangout, dive-aesthetic and irreverence. Diner-style aqua booths run along the right side of the tiny room, while the mostly-business cook mans the behind-counter grill. Queen-watching seats are available by the window.

Fried to perfection, burritos shun the standard bean/rice Mexican template in favour of wonderfully greased up sandwich-style fillings. Try the potato and cauliflower, lamb, chicken, beef - damn, they're all good. Also, burrito innards get better when you go Jumbo; don't be afraid. -S.T.