All projects start with a vision; some visions are big, some small. But regardless of the size or complexity of the idea, the implementation of the dream is rarely completely consistent. The ubiquitous Spanish architect Gaudi was outlived by the grandiosity of his imaginings for Sagrada Família and never saw the outcome; playwright Caden Cotard of Synecdoche, New York had such huge ideas for his play that he lost himself in it. Now, I know, if you're still with me, that you might be wondering why on earth I'm talking about 19th century architects and 21st century fictional artists when I am about to introduce a new Toronto restaurant. Well the answer, I think, is quite elementary: Nadege Nourian, chef/owner of the new eponymous pâtisserie, Nadege, is an artist, pure and simple. And, so goes the story: Nadege, at one time a diaphanous notion of a Champagne and chocolates shop within Nourian's mind, is now Toronto's only beautifully conceptualized, contemporary Parisian café.

Unlike Most French cafés in the city, Nadege does not attempt to emulate a tourist's vision of Paris. Instead, Nourian came to Toronto direct from Paris, a year ago, with one angle; that is, to bring a city that fancies itself cosmopolitan, a piece of Europe that is actually cosmopolitan, and more importantly, au current. So, in other words, when you enter Nadege, don't expect the words quaint, rustic, or cute to come to mind. Instead, what you will find is a clean-lined, sleek, modern space bathed in natural light. Intentional or not, the stark, yet sophisticated, spot reads like a deep focus photograph, an homage, it seems, to the former photo studio that inhabited the space for over forty years.

Starkly designed or not, the space, filled with such magnificently crafted sweets, and smells only Proust could write of, will never come off cold or uncomfortable. Nourian knows how to keep the attention on her art. Having held the illustrious position in London of assistant Executive Pastry Chef at Michelin star adorned restaurant, Hakkasan and even refusing a position as executive pastry chef at the new location in Miami , Nourian knows how to please with her pastries. In fact, she is such a perfectionist, worried that she would not be able to properly train Torontonian pastry chefs (sorry George Brown), she had to bring her right hand woman – Laur Larrose, who also worked at Hakkasan – with her.

As for the menu, the predominant focus of course is on sweets. Nadege features handmade chocolate pieces, chocolate truffles, and petit gateaux, all built with top quality chocolate sourced and shipped from France. Nadege also has a circulating assortment of sandwiches compiled from in-house baked bread and a variety of charcuterie from different regions of Italy, France, and Spain. But the pièce de résistance is what Chef refers to as "the new cupcake," the Paris pastry trend that has taken London by storm, courtesy of Nourian herself and has yet to even reach New York. So, it appears that Torontonians are in for a treat (both literally and figuratively); the Macaron – a French sandwich cookie, first popularized by Marie Antoinette – has arrived and is going to hit the big time right here. The caché-yielding cookies are constructed out of biscuits composed of almond flour, which Nourian imports from France, and then are uniquely decorated with colourful, meringue-like domes. Whether or not the cookie will be a T.O go-to remains to be seen, but Nourian is quite stalwart in her belief of its potential for trendiness.

As for the future of Nadege it seems to me, plans for this pâtisserie only get better from here. With potential (and vague contrivances) for a cavernous, exposed brick, wine lounge in the basement and a licensed patio (as soon as the city workers get off their arrogant asses), Nadege will likely be a new Queen West haunt, excusez-moi, I mean, le roi dans La Reine Ouest. Bon appétit. – E.H