When it opened, Musa generated a flurry of concern by locals who thought the restaurant was too intrusive and highfalutin for their neighborhood. Given the tone, we expected Musa to be a prissy, pricey fish-out-of-water; instead, what we found was a pleasant, sweet, little nonconformist spot in step with the city.

Owner Amy Fleischman produced a menu that's contemporary without being trendy. Nothing on the menu could be described as "groundbreaking" -- this is a neighborhood restaurant, after all -- but everything we tried was fresh and delicious, attractively presented and reasonably priced.

And fun! Musa’s food is straightforward but delicately nuanced On a recent visit we started off with an appetizer of grilled Cajun calamari, on a bed of grilled seasonal vegetables, drizzled with garlic lemon butter ($7.95). Other options included what they call The Omega; a seared filet of salmon on a salad of mixed greens ($11.95) and Sautéed shrimp served with bok choy and red peppers and drizzled with a black sesame seed vinaigrette ($7.95).

The menu features few options, but there’s a roster of nightly specials. Sticking to the menu, we ordered all three. The steak, a 10oz striploin, served with a peppercorn jus, with braised mushrooms that seemed to melt in the mouth ($17.95). The grilled chicken breast, with grilled vegetables and roasted potatoes ($15.95).

But the seafood platter was the star; clocking in at $22.95, it’s a meal for a king. First-rate ingredients highlight a plate of shrimp, mussels and calamari and the fish array of that day, on a platter of rapini.