Nestled up in the woodsy riverside of Hog’s Hollow in a historical home dating back to 1857, The Miller Tavern emits a vibe more akin to a posh country club then a run-of-the-mill watering hole. Exposed brick walls, masculine fireplaces and private pillowed booths lend a classic charm to the northern fish house.

Although there are a few savory dishes for meat lovers on the menu like the US Prime New York striploin ($48.95) the seafood is the real attraction at Miller’s. Chef Hugh Kerr flies in his fish from places as far as Japan and Ireland to ensure only the best flavours hit his customers’ palettes. The salmon dish is grilled and organic straight from the coasts of Clare Island, Ireland ($27.95). It is served with wasabi cream sauce, toasted sesame rice and teriyaki vegetable slaw.

All the seafood mains on the menu are served with the same sides which makes me think that Kerr is sacrificing culinary excellence in lieu of a quicker production level. The fact that the $50 prime striploin can only be ordered butterflied well or medium well is a sacrilege to the superb cut of beef and another indication of corners being cut for speed. The upside is there’s no excuse for less than speedy service at The Miller Tavern.

It’s worth a trip for the old-world atmosphere and the gigantic patio that is now glassed in and heated in parts to allow for winter seating. Fast food has never tasted or looked so good. –J.T.