It's easy to come up with a novel concept for a new bar or restaurant, but in some of Toronto's trendier neighbourhoods, a new spot has to fit the existing character of the area. Supermarket's Asian-fusion College Street offshoot, Tempo (then Mini-Market by Tempo), despite numerous updates, never quite adapted to its environment, and eventually had to shut its doors. Taking over the space, Mattino has much more of a College Street vibe.

Unlike many first-time restaurateurs, owner Rachel Wang hasn't charged in with unlimited ambition and tried to reinvent Toronto. Instead, she's surrounded herself with an optimistic team of veterans and built a confident neighbourhood spot – nothing too fancy, but one designed to command attention. Mattino is primarily an Italian restaurant with a bar tinge (sound familiar?), but from this early stage, it is attempting to differentiate itself from its Little Italy brethren and breathe on its own.Take a quick look at the menu, and you'll see what I mean. Yes, the dishes are all Mediterranean, but they're far from traditional.

What's the first thing you think of when you think Italian dining? If you said pasta, you're right. And it's nowhere to be found (at least not yet). Instead, the restaurant offers a small selection of lighter, seasonal twists on Italian cooking. Chef Antonio Mahne's dishes show a respect for regional cooking, but also a willingness to create quirky updates on the staples. Take, for instance, the signature appetizer, not polenta, but Polenta Fries, cut into strips, deep fried, and tossed with shaved reggiano cheese, fresh thyme, and served with lemon aioli and tomato basil sauces as "dips".

The menu is heavy on fresh seafood, with Crispy Calamari Strips, Shrimp Diavola, and Seared East Coast Scallops all on offer, while a 10 ounce Rib Eye Steak (served with red wine, rosemary, and peppercorn butter), Grilled Veal Striploin Medallions, and an ever-changing Anti Pasto platter offer plenty of carnivorous selections. Fitting with the casual, 'hood-friendly vibe, no menu item exceeds $20.

Mattino does moonlight as a bar, but General Manager Kody Giallonardo insists it’s a restaurant first. "We want to avoid the 'shit and leave' syndrome'," he says. "Mattino is about enjoyment, not overindulgence." As a result, much of the ostentatious loungey décor of Mini-Market has been toned down, replacing banquettes and lime green colour motifs with earth tones and table seating. A long marble bar is used not just as a drinking area, but is also well-suited for dining. Right next to the bar sits a "small and rocking" open kitchen (hopefully no one sneezes).